The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A classic line. Begin just right of the Goliath arete (both routes share the same start), and climb to the top of a large pillar. Once gaining the top of the pillar continue up and pull a balancy move for the technical crux. Trend right on large holds, then up and through the bulge. This bulge is the crux for most, as the pump clock is ticking. After pulling this bulge, the rest is only 5.8 climbing but can be a little spooky, especially if your super pumped! It is fairly run out from there to the anchors.
One can continue to the top from the midpoint anchors, but if done it will be helpful to have a 70m rope. Run out but easy climbing up there.
10 bolts to the first set of anchors. If you continue to the top there are three more bolts.
There are now 3 bolts between the mid anchors and the top. While not the best rock or the most memorable moves it is certainly worth doing once.
By Sam Perkins From: Rexburg, ID Mar 23, 2011 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-E4 6a
I thought this was an extremely beautiful route. Enjoyable movement, nice holds, and overall length made it quite memorable. Even though the climbing past the midway anchors may not be anything special, the view from the top is. And if it was runout at all in the past, it certainly isn't anymore. It's a safe cruise to the top anchors.
This route is SUPER classic. Possibly the best 5.11 route that I have done. Absolutely phenomenal! Steep, pumpy, engaging.... Get on this beast! Rest up at the 4th bolt, and try to sprint to the chains!