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Coyote Crag
Routes Sorted
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Black Magic Poodle S 
Bye Crackie S 
Coyotes at Sunset S 
Eight Second Ride S 
Es Muy Bueno T 
Golden Poodle S 
Golden Spike S 
High Noon S 
Hootenanny T 
Pass the Bucket T 
Red Brewster T 
Saddle Tramp TR 
Western Farm Service T 

Golden Spike 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Chris Miller & Tim Fearn 1990, FL: Chris Miller & Dave Evans, June 1997
Season: All year (depending upon snowfall)
Page Views: 1,155
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 19, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Bolt Locations

Description 

Boulder up into a thin crack and pull a small overlap before getting established below a prominent bulge. Over the bulge via some comitting and strenuous moves to gain a jug and then continue up and left on somewhat scrappy rock to the anchors.

Decent moves on this one but the rock quality is not on par with most climbs on this wall. The line tends to wander some as well which detracts somewhat from the overall quality.


Location 

Just right of Black Magic Poodle at a thin crack.


Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Golden Spike Slideshow Add Photo
Start of `Golden Spike` at `Coyote Crag` Holcomb Valley .... Based this experience, I would call it 5.10b X
Start of `Golden Spike` at `Coyote Crag` Holcomb V...
Golden Spike topo
BETA PHOTO: Golden Spike topo
Jamieson Stuart on Golden Spike
Jamieson Stuart on Golden Spike
Golden Spike (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Golden Spike (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Comments on Golden Spike Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 10, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a great route but I feel it's harder than the rating given here. The crux is indeed very comitting and strenuous but it doesn't let up much thereafter.

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 27, 2008

Rock quality seems to be improving every year with traffic. I actually prefer this route to High Noon due to its more continuous nature, although the crux sequence isn't quite as interesting. I think the grade of 10b is accurate, although it might seem stiff compared with some other routes in the area that have ratings on the soft side.

By johnnydanger
From: California
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A great climb with a thin start, solid crux, and continuous steep climbing to finish it off! I agree with Bill and would say if High Noon is 10b than Golden spike should be 10c. Hard 10b or soft 10c, it's still one not to miss.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'd give it 5.10c. The crux is quite powerful, and often rejects on-sights.

By tim coates
From: ventura,ca
May 17, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The way I worked it out seemed stiff for 10b, more like 10d. At the bulge I set up left of the bolt. The crux was a left hand sidepull/ undercling with a right hand crimp and right heel hook to move up. Super fun!