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k. The Slime Wall
Routes Sorted
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April Showers T 
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 
Bragg-Hatch T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Comedy In Three Acts T 
Falled on Account of Strain T 
Frustration Syndrome T 
Golden Showers T 
Kligfield's Follies T 
Last Frontier T 
Moondance T 
Simple Suff T 
Stand, The T 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 
Sundance T 
Tangled Up and Blue T 
Techno-Suff TR 
Wasp T 

Golden Showers 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Russ Raffa and Eliot Williams, 1982
Page Views: 651
Submitted By: akline on Nov 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

This route feels like three boulder problems stacked on top of each other, with decent rests in between.

The first problem is moving into and through the initial 2-inch overhang. then you get some good holds. Then there is a thin move up to the next horizontal. From here you can move left and get a decent, but not a no-hands, rest. Third problem: move up into and through the right-leaning seam. There are a few marginal rp placements before the seam, and a better RP in the middle of the seam, but it's difficult to stop and place it on lead.

Rappel from chains at April Showers.


Location 

Ten feet right of April Showers, below the left edge of a very shallow but distinct overhang


Protection 

... not confidence-inspiring. Bring RPs. If the RPs at the base of the seam blow, you will need a good belayer to keep you off the deck.



Comments on Golden Showers Add Comment
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By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Feb 16, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

I've always found this climb significantly harder than its similarly graded neighbors (April Showers, Comedy, Stand). I find all three cruxes (particularly the final one through the seam) reachy at 5'6". I'll second that the pro in places in not inspiring.

By David Stowe
Feb 20, 2012

I also find this harder than Comedy. It should be harder than April Showers, unless you count the bouldery start on that route, as the rest of it after that first move is 10b. As far as the gear goes on Golden Showers I had no complaints. In fact if you have doubles you can get bomber nuts on either side at the base of the crux seam, and if/when you fall you essentially decelerate coming down between the two pieces. I found the gear to be very safe and not at all an issue.

By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

Assuming the oppositional nuts in the shallow, thin horizontal hold, the fall at the crux is safe. I've taken the fall and they held, but again, not the most inspiring gear.

By David Stowe
Feb 21, 2012

I've actually gotten some good slotted nuts on either side of the seam. They were also independent single nuts and not opposed, #2 and #3 walnuts if I remember correctly. Good thing, because standing up at that seam before you reach the lock is tough and definitely harder than 11a.

By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Hard 11 for shorties, for sure. 3 cruxes, all big reaches for me. Great climbing and great route!

By paulmadry
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I must say 5.11 for people 5.9 or shorter. If I had an extra 2 inches of reach I'd rate it 5.10+. I fell on a black alien placed in the seam.