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A modern classic! This is an amazing climb, with good variety and beautiful stone. All pitches are just under 30m and can be quickly rapped with a 60m rope.
P1: Boulder past two bolts, then walk right on the ledge to an arete. Cruxy moves bring one up, into the crack, and to the belay just up and left of a sloping ledge stance. (Note, this pitch may work better broken into two pitches, with a ledge fall possible if done in one pitch). 5.11+
P2: Delicate and sequency climbing leads up past a flake, and rightward through an intricate sequence of moves back onto the arete. 5.11
P3:Up the arete on impossibly good holds, with a short crux near the end of the pitch. 5.10+
P4: Stem or smear your way up to the base of the roof, and reach high for holds to get you through. Continue up to the belay. 5.11-
P5: Up a cruxy layback sequence on sharp rock, then past the big roof on big holds. Tenuous climbing above the roof keeps you on your toes until the chains. 5.11+
This route follows the plumb-line arete to the right of Heavens Gate, and left of Davis-Holland. The route begins on a huge boulder/flake leaning against the wall, and stays just left of the chimney system for its entire length.
All new bolts and all anchors are double bolted and set for rapping.
|By Jon Nelson|
Oct 4, 2011
The upper part of the first pitch now goes up the corner and avoids the two upper bolts (and avoids the original 5.11+ crux). The large white scar is where a giant flake fell off, making the original finish practically impossible. So, the crux is now either the bouldery 5.10 face moves off the ground or the traverse from the corner to the anchor chains at the end of the pitch (~5.10?).
|By Keenan Waeschle|
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 19, 2012
I thought the crux of P1 was around the second bolt, it's a long way in between the good jams in pinscars and the feet are non existent. A good one to do if you're up there.