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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Tanners Gulch
> Hidden Heavenly Slab
Golden Plates
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.6 from 15
votes
Routes in Hidden Heavenly Slab
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6 Ways From Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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7th Way, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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All About Volume T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Altered Alter Boy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Apostate Apsotle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Black Sabbath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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East Coast Insecurities T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Golden Plates T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guardian Angel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Indie Dog Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lonely Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mischievous Moroni T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My God, Your God T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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North of Heaven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paradise on Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Personal Jihad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Playa Hater T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pudgy Pastor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Resurrection to Eternal Life T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Siberian Sinkhole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Son of a Preacher Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Luke Douglas, Tyler Phillips 11/05/07 |
| Page Views: | 2,570 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Douglas on Nov 4, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1. From the starting bolt make some sporty moves on big holds to gain the golden slab above. After clipping a bolt an angling foot ramp and some delicate footwork allow you to gain a TCU placement out right. From this placement move onto the face and towards the roof taking advantage of a good horizontal (TCU). At the roof clip a bolt and climb straight up passing horizontal placements and one final bolt. Mellow climbing leads to the anchor. If you fail to correctly translate the message of the Golden Plates and stray from the path expect some run out climbing. Do this climb!!
Pitch2-PROJECT
Refer to the topo on the Hidden Heavenly page.
Pitch2-PROJECT
Refer to the topo on the Hidden Heavenly page.
Location
This climb can be accessed by ascending Mischievous Moroni (the Golden Plates lie directly above the top anchors of Mischievous Moroni) or by belaying from the Guardian Angel station(In which case you will traverse out right under the roof clipping 2 pins and slinging them long. Step down and right to locate the bolt under the roof that marks the start of the Golden Plates. Going this path you will encounter some R climbing as you make your way to the bolt.
For the best outing climb North of Heaven to its top and at the base of the first rap move your belay over to the top of Mischievous.
For the best outing climb North of Heaven to its top and at the base of the first rap move your belay over to the top of Mischievous.
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