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Hidden Heavenly Slab
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Son of a Preacher Man 

Golden Plates 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Luke Douglas, Tyler Phillips 11/05/07
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 921
Submitted By: Luke Douglas on Nov 4, 2008
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The roof that starts off the "Golden Plates" pitch...

Description 

P1. From the starting bolt make some sporty moves on big holds to gain the golden slab above. After clipping a bolt an angling foot ramp and some delicate footwork allow you to gain a TCU placement out right. From this placement move onto the face and towards the roof taking advantage of a good horizontal (TCU). At the roof clip a bolt and climb straight up passing horizontal placements and one final bolt. Mellow climbing leads to the anchor. If you fail to correctly translate the message of the Golden Plates and stray from the path expect some run out climbing. Do this climb!!
Pitch2-PROJECT
Refer to the topo on the Hidden Heavenly page.


Location 

This climb can be accessed by ascending Mischievous Moroni (the Golden Plates lie directly above the top anchors of Mischievous Moroni) or by belaying from the Guardian Angel station(In which case you will traverse out right under the roof clipping 2 pins and slinging them long. Step down and right to locate the bolt under the roof that marks the start of the Golden Plates. Going this path you will encounter some R climbing as you make your way to the bolt.
For the best outing climb North of Heaven to its top and at the base of the first rap move your belay over to the top of Mischievous.


Protection 

(3) #1 Metolius , QDs, a few slings



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