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Mountain Light Wall
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Golden Pillar 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Aid: Barnes, Wuhrmann, Scholl ('04) // Free: Polasek, Barnes ('05)
Page Views: 588
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jul 16, 2010

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Megan following the 4th pitch of Golden Pillar

Description 

This is probably the best climb at Mountain Light Wall. The route ascends the prominent pillar near the center of the formation.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 160 feet) An obvious crack leads up to the left side of the pillar. Begin to the right of this with a series of mantles on large flakes and traverse to the crack once you're above the large bush that is growing out of it. Follow the crack through a couple steep bulges to a bolted belay in a dihedral.

Pitch 2 (5.10c, 110 feet) Climb up the corner, clip a bolt and then move onto the arete under a tricky roof (5.10b). Continue past another overlap via double cracks. The right crack takes a bomber 2" piece but make sure to extend it. Head up a steep and tightly bolted corner and then work out left and up a slab to another bolted anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.10b, 110 feet) Angle up and right on 4th class. Climb up a steep but juggy arete to reach a bolt, then traverse right onto the main face of the pillar. Climb past some expanding flakes and then move back to the left side of the pillar. Climb up a tricky finger crack and finally mantle up onto a slab with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.10-, 100 feet). Slab climb up a well bolted arete and then traverse right to more bolts and an overlap. Step over the overlap and climb a crack through a series of ledges. Belay at bolts nicely positioned at the edge of the exposed arete. This pitch can be linked with the previous or the next if you are careful with rope drag.

Pitch 5 (5.4, 100 feet) Not recommended. Continue up the easy arete and right facing corner to the top of the formation. Either walk off (your on your own there) or rappel. As of July 2010 the rappel consisted of one solid nut with a quicklink. Consider bringing a good amount of cordage or webbing if you wish to back it up with slung blocks or jammed knotts.

The route can be rappelled with one 70 meter rope. From the 1st pitch anchor make a short rappel to the top of Mule Daze (down and left) and from there rappel to ledges.

Protection 

A set of nuts and single set of cams to 3" is sufficient. Most of the cruxes are protected by bolts and all of the anchors are bolted (except the 5th of course).


Photos of Golden Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
The Golden Pillar of Mountain Light Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The Golden Pillar of Mountain Light Wall.

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