|193 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11c [details]|
|FA: ||Bob Gaines, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood and Chip Maloney, July 2001|
|Submitted By: ||Bob Gaines on Jul 14, 2010|
From the Ishi/Quiet Desperation belay move right, then climb up (11a) past 4 bolts, traversing right (crux, 11c) at the fourth bolt to a rest stance. A 5.10a move from here gets you to the 5th bolt. Follow a shallow, left facing corner (5.9) with a fixed pin (you can back up the pin with a #3 BD microstopper) then step right and join Iron Cross for its last 2 bolts (5.8).
Belay from a pine tree.
This pitch climbs diagonally up and right on a beautiful, gold colored slab, starting from the bolted belay of Ishi/Quiet Desperation and finishing on Paisano Ledge.
It can also be accessed by rapping down from Paisano Ledge (build an anchor with 2 to 4 inch CDs directly under Paisano Overhang) which is also a tactic that can be used to climb Ishi's rarely climbed but stunning last pitch, which is a lieback reminiscent of Yosemite's Wheat Thin.
7 bolts, one fixed pin, one thin nut.