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 ADVANCED
Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bukatude T 
Buttress Chimney T 
Drain Pipe, The T 
First Pitch T 
Gates of Delirium T 
Golden Oldies T 
Hesitation T 
Hesitation Direct T 
Iron Cross T 
Ishi T 
Last of the Mohicans T 
Moondance T 
New Generation T 
Nirvana T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Race With The Devil T 
Red Rain T 
Sidewinder T 
Stretch, The T 
Sundance T 
Sundance Arete T 
Sundike T 
Valhalla T 
Voodoo Child T 

Golden Oldies 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood and Chip Maloney, July 2001
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jul 14, 2010

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Description 

From the Ishi/Quiet Desperation belay move right, then climb up (11a) past 4 bolts, traversing right (crux, 11c) at the fourth bolt to a rest stance. A 5.10a move from here gets you to the 5th bolt. Follow a shallow, left facing corner (5.9) with a fixed pin (you can back up the pin with a #3 BD microstopper) then step right and join Iron Cross for its last 2 bolts (5.8).

Belay from a pine tree.

Location 

This pitch climbs diagonally up and right on a beautiful, gold colored slab, starting from the bolted belay of Ishi/Quiet Desperation and finishing on Paisano Ledge.

It can also be accessed by rapping down from Paisano Ledge (build an anchor with 2 to 4 inch CDs directly under Paisano Overhang) which is also a tactic that can be used to climb Ishi's rarely climbed but stunning last pitch, which is a lieback reminiscent of Yosemite's Wheat Thin.

Protection 

7 bolts, one fixed pin, one thin nut.


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