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Motherlode Rock - East Face
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Golden Nugget 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 1,581
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 13, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Moving gingerly to the 3rd bolt. My first 5.10a sp...

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Description 

This, one of the first lines on the wall is located on the left side of the east face and is the second bolted route from the left; it lies about 15' right of Fire in the Hole.

Boudery moves on thin but positive edges start things off, and lead to a crux section moving past the 2nd bolt. Once past the crux, the holds increase in size and the angle kicks back to a slab for a short section before finishing on vertical jugs.

Great moves on excellent rock make this a popular climb on a popular wall. Orignally done with only two bolts (the second and third) and no anchors, it was later retrobolted which greatly boosted it's popularity.


Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchor



Photos of Golden Nugget Slideshow Add Photo
The awesome plates and dike of Golden Nugget.
The awesome plates and dike of Golden Nugget.
Chris Lane nearing the top of Golden Nugget.
Chris Lane nearing the top of Golden Nugget.
Tom D starting up Golden Nugget
Tom D starting up Golden Nugget
Lluis Penalver Aguila leading.
Lluis Penalver Aguila leading.
Comments on Golden Nugget Add Comment
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This is a very fun and spicey lead for the grade. I think it is harder and more sustained than its neighbor, Fire in the Hole. Also a great warm-up for those getting on the 11's to the right (Motherload and Black Bart).

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I'll have to disagree with the previous comment seeing how there is only one tough .10a move after bolt #3. It's not sustained after that....perhaps 5.7/5.8 to the top. The opening moves may check in at 5.9.

Nice route though!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Agreed that this is 5.10a - the initial section is quite crimpy. There's a great horn to sling between the second and third bolts, if you're inclined to look for natural ways to protect yourself.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 12, 2009

I would have to rate this as sustained 5.9 for the first three bolts, but couldn't say any single move was harder.
I didn't see anything that would come close to being a "great horn to sling between the second and third bolt." Possibly something broke recently?

By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Sep 7, 2009

5.10a at the start and moving from bolt 2 to 3. I have to agree it felt like a 7/8 after that. Grab the jug/horn up and to the right of bolt 3 while clipping. Over the slab the feet are good, and there are solid edges on the last 10-15 feet to the anchors.

By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Jul 16, 2011

This is my first 5.10 lead climb! Not a pretty lead, definitely a nice fun route! I almost "flew" as I got to the 3rd bolt. Managed to stick it though. The mental thought of how it felt run-out to me from 2nd to 3rd bolt is what freaked me out! I will definitely do this route again. Hopefully next time with more finesse to it. :) ~~ ROCKY~~