Golden Nugget 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Chris Miller & Rick Shull, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Mar 13, 2007 |
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Chris Lane nearing the top of Golden Nugget.
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Description This, one of the first lines on the wall is located on the left side of the east face and is the second bolted route from the left; it lies about 15' right of Fire in the Hole.
Boudery moves on thin but positive edges start things off, and lead to a crux section moving past the 2nd bolt. Once past the crux, the holds increase in size and the angle kicks back to a slab for a short section before finishing on vertical jugs.
Great moves on excellent rock make this a popular climb on a popular wall. Orignally done with only two bolts (the second and third) and no anchors, it was later retrobolted which greatly boosted it's popularity.
Protection 5 bolts, chain anchor
The awesome plates and dike of Golden Nugget.
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Tom D starting up Golden Nugget
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Moving gingerly to the 3rd bolt. My first 5.10a sp...
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Lluis Penalver Aguila leading.
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| Comments on Golden Nugget |
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007
rating: 5.10b
| This is a very fun and spicey lead for the grade. I think it is harder and more sustained than its neighbor, Fire in the Hole. Also a great warm-up for those getting on the 11's to the right (Motherload and Black Bart). |
By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| I'll have to disagree with the previous comment seeing how there is only one tough .10a move after bolt #3. It's not sustained after that....perhaps 5.7/5.8 to the top. The opening moves may check in at 5.9.
Nice route though! |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| Agreed that this is 5.10a - the initial section is quite crimpy. There's a great horn to sling between the second and third bolts, if you're inclined to look for natural ways to protect yourself. |
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 12, 2009
| I would have to rate this as sustained 5.9 for the first three bolts, but couldn't say any single move was harder.
I didn't see anything that would come close to being a "great horn to sling between the second and third bolt." Possibly something broke recently? |
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Sep 7, 2009
| 5.10a at the start and moving from bolt 2 to 3. I have to agree it felt like a 7/8 after that. Grab the jug/horn up and to the right of bolt 3 while clipping. Over the slab the feet are good, and there are solid edges on the last 10-15 feet to the anchors. |
By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Jul 16, 2011
| This is my first 5.10 lead climb! Not a pretty lead, definitely a nice fun route! I almost "flew" as I got to the 3rd bolt. Managed to stick it though. The mental thought of how it felt run-out to me from 2nd to 3rd bolt is what freaked me out! I will definitely do this route again. Hopefully next time with more finesse to it. :) ~~ ROCKY~~ |
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