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One of the true T-Wall classics, Golden Locks may be the most popular route at the crag. Its beautiful splitter crack is instantly recognizable, and the exposure above the Tennessee River far below makes for great photo opportunities. Golden Locks may also be the most sandbagged T-Wall moderate: many leaders have been humbled by this stiff 5.8 (now given a 5.9 by the FA in his new guidebook).
It's wise to have a spotter ready for the overhanging, bouldery start; possibly the toughest move on the route. Once you get past this early crux, route-finding isn't an issue: follow the obvious hand crack straight up the cliff, pausing for a welcome rest at a shallow cave. Save some pro and energy reserves for the steeper sections toward the top.
Starts in a wide section of the wall about 35' past Razor Worm; other climbs in the area include Cake Walk.
Medium to large cams; hexes could be helpful. Bolted anchor at the top (on the right face of an overhang just below the cliff top).
JenT enjoying a rest in the hueco
B-Mack grunts it out.
Goldenlocks 5.8 on a fine Spring day
lovin this climb
Start of Golden Locks
Upper section of Golden Locks
|By Danny Inman|
Dec 6, 2006
Great route. The crux is definitely getting to the crack via the pumpy start with a less than appetizing landing on a pointed rock. Spotter here = good.
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Dec 15, 2006
Usually the six or eight assorted dogs tied off here on weekends make for a decent landing, if you come to the head of the queue. Spot!
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Feb 12, 2007
Classic Tennessee Wall start. Someone once told me that the first 10 feet of T-Wall routes don't count, as far as grades go. Har har.
From: Decatur, GA
Nov 4, 2007
Pumpy! Take advantage of any rest stance you can find after the cave; I ran out of gas near the end.
|By Peter L K|
From: Cincinnati, OH
Mar 23, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I didn't use anything larger than a 3, but did use a couple TCUs for the lower section. Fun.
Sep 29, 2009
Great route! I hung a couple of times :(. This would be a 5.10 in Boulder Canyon. Nothing bigger that a #2 BD. I didn't find the bouldery start that hard, it is however a very sustained climb. Next time ill place less pro and fly up. A great climb to get for my first time at the T-wall, highly recommend it.
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Jun 22, 2010
I was almost shut down on the overhang start. Damn that was hard. then climb up to the giant hueco, followed by an amazing hand crack. The crux seems to be at the top, or maybe I was just pumped.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
the very first move is the crux. after that, its a walk.
|By Peter Pitocchi|
Nov 22, 2011
First move protects with a 3 if you are nervous about the pointy rock. Abundant pro.