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Golden Local Opens Another 5.6 in Front Range - UPDATED!!!
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Mar 15, 2011
Me too!
Area Man Opens Another 5.6 in Front Range—UPDATED
By Amanda Fox

3/14/11 - News link: Still on a tear through CO's easiest sport climbs, an area man opened Left corner in the Front Range area of CO, on Sunday, suggesting 5.6+ for the route. This line is a "second" extension to some other dude's route Left-most Left-Facing Corner and added some non-technical and quite undemanding moves to an existing extension by that other dude's sister Kate.

According to a report by desnivel.com (in Boulderish), it had been blowing nonstop Saturday, but the 30-foot, janky route, which sits in the West of Denver sector, stayed sheltered. The area man worked it over the weekend, only needing eleven attempts to make the ascent.

He is reportedly focusing on another project in CO called Right-most Crack, a possible 5.7, which sits near even harder projects: Middle Slab (5.7+) and Left-Ramp (5.8-).

This ascent follows his groundbreaking four 5.5 onsights in the span of several weeks.

In RMNP, this dude's friend just put away his project, an as yet unnamed (5.4), which apparently was caught on camera by his roomate's sister on her iPhone, quite by accident.

Dates of ascents: March 12 and 13, 2011
J. Fox
From Black Hawk, CO
Joined Mar 29, 2007
1,525 points
Administrator
Mar 15, 2011
!
Sounds radical. Glad to hear the monkey is sending:

xtranormal.com/watch/8028015/
Larry DeAngelo
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Nov 1, 2002
4,039 points
Mar 15, 2011
Bouldering Poudre Canyon, Colorado
Possibly the funniest thing I will read today. Thanks for posting

~Bob
Bob Robinson
From Lone Tree, Colorado
Joined Aug 25, 2009
255 points
Mar 15, 2011
BEST MP POST IN A LONG, LONG TIME! Thanks for keeping us up to date! ROC
From Englewood, CO
Joined Feb 19, 2003
276 points
Mar 15, 2011
You can tell Lenny any of your sport climbing prob...
is their gonna be a video in the next Reel Rock Tour of the ascent? Dr. Ellis D. Funnythoughts
From Evergreen, Co
Joined Mar 31, 2008
137 points
Mar 15, 2011
My shadow is forcing me into the overhanging crux....
The Onion, invades MP.com!

Good stuff, thanks for the smirks.
the Descender
From . . . CO
Joined Feb 26, 2010
276 points
Mar 15, 2011
Vervet Monkeys know which site is best.
This is why I can't stand the grading game in today's climbing culture.

Just cuz this guy onsighted five 5.5's doesn't give him the requisite platform to go grading something 5.6+.

Like, seriously, what ever happened to 5.5c and 5.5d? This is bullshit if you ask me, he has to do at least eleven 5.5d's before he can even think about calling something 5.6+

I fear for the future of our sport.

Grades aside there is no doubt this dude is CRUSHING. Is there any chance he's the prodigal understudy of Jim Ebert ?
DFrench
From Cape Ann
Joined Apr 22, 2007
510 points
Mar 15, 2011
mmmm....tree
Thanks!I was feelin' a little pissy today.The OP and the cartoon were just right. Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Joined Oct 4, 2001
177 points
Mar 15, 2011
PS
DFrench wrote:
Just cuz this guy onsighted five 5.5's doesn't give him the requisite platform to go grading something 5.6+.


A reasonable point, and I tend to agree, but since none of us will ever climb that hard, it makes it impossible for us to say what's 5.5d and what's 5.6+. I mean, that's truly the realm of the immortal.
SeanKuus
From Steamboat Springs
Joined Sep 30, 2007
565 points
Mar 15, 2011
Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick!

Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!
Roots
From Tustin, CA
Joined Dec 15, 2010
24 points
Mar 15, 2011
Roots wrote:
Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick! Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!



desnivel.com/escalada-roca/ada...

No need to travel--you can do this route next door to you in Santa Ana. Not sure exactly where it is--maybe under the 22 Freeway or in Hart Park?
PRRose
From Boulder
Joined Feb 11, 2006
2 points
Mar 15, 2011
Roots wrote:
Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick! Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!



desnivel.com/escalada-roca/ada...

No need to travel--you can do this route next door to you in Santa Ana. Not sure exactly where it is--maybe under the 22 Freeway or in Hart Park?
PRRose
From Boulder
Joined Feb 11, 2006
2 points
Mar 15, 2011
Roots wrote:
Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick! Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!



desnivel.com/escalada-roca/ada...

No need to travel--you can do this route next door to you in Santa Ana. Not sure exactly where it is--maybe under the 22 Freeway or in Hart Park?
PRRose
From Boulder
Joined Feb 11, 2006
2 points


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