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Golden Local Opens Another 5.6 in Front Range - UPDATED!!!
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By J. Fox
From Black Hawk, CO
Mar 15, 2011
Me too!
Area Man Opens Another 5.6 in Front Range—UPDATED
By Amanda Fox

3/14/11 - News link: Still on a tear through CO's easiest sport climbs, an area man opened Left corner in the Front Range area of CO, on Sunday, suggesting 5.6+ for the route. This line is a "second" extension to some other dude's route Left-most Left-Facing Corner and added some non-technical and quite undemanding moves to an existing extension by that other dude's sister Kate.

According to a report by desnivel.com (in Boulderish), it had been blowing nonstop Saturday, but the 30-foot, janky route, which sits in the West of Denver sector, stayed sheltered. The area man worked it over the weekend, only needing eleven attempts to make the ascent.

He is reportedly focusing on another project in CO called Right-most Crack, a possible 5.7, which sits near even harder projects: Middle Slab (5.7+) and Left-Ramp (5.8-).

This ascent follows his groundbreaking four 5.5 onsights in the span of several weeks.

In RMNP, this dude's friend just put away his project, an as yet unnamed (5.4), which apparently was caught on camera by his roomate's sister on her iPhone, quite by accident.

Dates of ascents: March 12 and 13, 2011

FLAG
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 15, 2011
!
Sounds radical. Glad to hear the monkey is sending:

xtranormal.com/watch/8028015/

FLAG
By Bob Robinson
From Lone Tree, Colorado
Mar 15, 2011
Bouldering Poudre Canyon, Colorado
Possibly the funniest thing I will read today. Thanks for posting

~Bob

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By ROC
From Englewood, CO
Mar 15, 2011
BEST MP POST IN A LONG, LONG TIME! Thanks for keeping us up to date!

FLAG
By Dr. Ellis D. Funnythoughts
From Evergreen, Co
Mar 15, 2011
You can tell Lenny any of your sport climbing problems. He's a great listener.
is their gonna be a video in the next Reel Rock Tour of the ascent?

FLAG
By the Ascender
From . . . CO
Mar 15, 2011
My shadow is forcing me into the overhanging crux.
The Onion, invades MP.com!

Good stuff, thanks for the smirks.

FLAG
By DFrench
From The Shrew, MA
Mar 15, 2011
Vervet Monkeys know which site is best.
This is why I can't stand the grading game in today's climbing culture.

Just cuz this guy onsighted five 5.5's doesn't give him the requisite platform to go grading something 5.6+.

Like, seriously, what ever happened to 5.5c and 5.5d? This is bullshit if you ask me, he has to do at least eleven 5.5d's before he can even think about calling something 5.6+

I fear for the future of our sport.

Grades aside there is no doubt this dude is CRUSHING. Is there any chance he's the prodigal understudy of Jim Ebert ?

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By Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Mar 15, 2011
mmmm....tree
Thanks!I was feelin' a little pissy today.The OP and the cartoon were just right.

FLAG
 
By SeanKuus
From Steamboat Springs
Mar 15, 2011
PS
DFrench wrote:
Just cuz this guy onsighted five 5.5's doesn't give him the requisite platform to go grading something 5.6+.


A reasonable point, and I tend to agree, but since none of us will ever climb that hard, it makes it impossible for us to say what's 5.5d and what's 5.6+. I mean, that's truly the realm of the immortal.

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By Roots
From Tustin, CA
Mar 15, 2011
Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick!

Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!

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By PRRose
From Boulder
Mar 15, 2011
Roots wrote:
Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick! Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!



desnivel.com/escalada-roca/ada...

No need to travel--you can do this route next door to you in Santa Ana. Not sure exactly where it is--maybe under the 22 Freeway or in Hart Park?

FLAG
By PRRose
From Boulder
Mar 15, 2011
Roots wrote:
Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick! Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!



desnivel.com/escalada-roca/ada...

No need to travel--you can do this route next door to you in Santa Ana. Not sure exactly where it is--maybe under the 22 Freeway or in Hart Park?

FLAG
By PRRose
From Boulder
Mar 15, 2011
Roots wrote:
Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick! Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!



desnivel.com/escalada-roca/ada...

No need to travel--you can do this route next door to you in Santa Ana. Not sure exactly where it is--maybe under the 22 Freeway or in Hart Park?

FLAG


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