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Golden Grief 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on Aug 22, 2011
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Description 

Pull over the lip with high feet and underclings to gain a jug and easy ground to the first bolt. Clip the bolt and traverse low right to a mantle move onto a chicken head, and clip a second bolt. Make some slabby moves to gain the third bolt which is a little higher and to the right. Clip the older bolt and move yet again up and right to gain a nice, but short hand crack which turns into a seam. Make some difficult moves to gain a ledge, where you can belay.

From there, move to the left edge of the ledge and pull through the 5.8 fist crack/bulge. The more insecure you are willing to get, the easier it is. From here, move left up the easy crack/flake until you can move straight up on unprotected 5.4. Gain a 5.6ish fist crack and belay at the top at two bolts.

I linked this into 1 varied pitch with good use of slings. Less confident leaders should probably break it into two pitches.


Location 

This route is located about 100 yards up and right of MRC Direct. Scramble up the blocks until a hanging slab is above you with a few bolts on it.

To get off, walk across the top of the formation to the rap anchor located above MRC Direct. Two single rope raps will get you down. You could probably also rap off the anchors at the top of the climb with two ropes.


Protection 

Standard rack. You should have 2 #3s, and a #4 if you feel uncomfortable on fist cracks.



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