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Golden Gate 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mark Rolofson, Kirk Miller
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,813
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Oct 28, 2010
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Another beautiful fall day on Golden Gate.

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This route offers up two fantastic sections separated by a commodius ledge. Climb the prow with big reaches to hidden jugs, mantle, and take a nap. When you wake up take a stab at the crux face, then into the gate. Pulling through the roof, through the gate, and onto the ledge is like going through some kind of crazy re-birth.


This is located on the right edge of the West face and is characterized by its beautiful prow and the "gate", a slot through the roofs that loom overhead.


8 bolts to ring and chain anchors.

Photos of Golden Gate Slideshow Add Photo
At the anchors.
At the anchors.
Pulling the crux.
Pulling the crux.
Vaino Kodas on the prow.
Vaino Kodas on the prow.
Entering the gate.
Entering the gate.
Looking up at the GATE.
Looking up at the GATE.
In the gate.
In the gate.
Summer in CO.
Summer in CO.
Comments on Golden Gate Add Comment
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By Kirill Kireyev
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

The lower section, though not the crux, has really elegant balancy movement.

The crux is very height-dependent. It felt very hard for me, and I'm 5'9".

By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Just plain burly from the headwall on to the top. Really fairly straightforward, just physical.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a


This is one of those grade-by-sequence deal-ies. If you roll up and clip the crux headwall bolt (right hand on crimp, clip with left) and downclimb back to the ledge to shake out before sending (now switch: left hand will grab the crimp), then yah, GG goes at stout 5.11--call it a "d." But if'n' you just clip on the go and fire, be prepared for solid .12 action. Either way, this one's fairly height-dependent. Oh, and unless the tick birds are in season, a couple of Where's-Wally handholds will keep Golden Gate a very proud onsight.

By KDog
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Is there a new route between this one and Dude's Dihedral that's not listed? I got on this thinking it was the 11b (Mofo Party Plan thing) and had a heck of a time. Whoops! BIG reaches, pretty height-dependent. I had a really hard time at the bottom balancy mantle, then pulling the final roof/headwall. Agree with the other comments...pretty solid 11d I would say.

By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Jun 20, 2013

No new routes have been added. The route to the right of Golden Gate, Brass Monkey, awaits listing on MP (from someone who's actually sent it!).

By KDog
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Ok, thanks for the info! We were using the mobile app, but maybe we were looking at the listings wrong (or the heat was getting to us....haha!).