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DescriptionThere is a backwoodsy, subalpine, state park with multiple granite crags, some of which may never have been climbed, ranging from 50 to 450 feet in height. A park fee is required to park. The rock is mostly granite ranging from 8000-10000 foot altitude. Beautiful vistas soothe your eyes from belay perches. People have been climbing here since at least the 1950s. There are mostly traditional climbs; however, sport-ish climbs are appearing here more recently. Some approaches exceed an hour. Rocks here include: Mount Thorodin's 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttresses; Ralston Roost; Son of Ralston; Raven Knob, Odin's Good Eye, Odin's Rib Cage, The Rainbow Bridge, Odin's Throne, rocks near the campgrounds, a bizarre spire named Lazy Squaw Spire, Dude's Throne, Little Dude's Throne, and The Grendel. There are other intriguing looking crags visible from the road to Panorama Point. Some fixed gear is quite suspect (I pulled an angle out with only light finger pressure). Getting ThereFrom CO Hwy 93 just North of Golden, follow the Golden Gate Canyon road perhaps 18 miles to Golden Gate Canyon State Park. There are multiple crags in the area. The biggest are off Mt Thorodin, accessed & visible from Panorama Point, up the windy road past Kriley Pond. Lazy Squaw Spire can be accessed from the Lazy Squaw Ranch near Panorama Point. Son of Ralston & Ralston Roost can be accessed from Golden Gate Canyon Road. CampingThere is camping here both backcountry and at established campgrounds. The backcountry campsites include: Forgotten Valley, Deer Creek, Frazer Meadow, Rim Meadow, and Greenfield Meadow. These campgrounds include Rifleman Phillips Group Campground (reservations only), Reverend's Ridge Campground (limited winter facilities), and Aspen Meadows Campground (closed in winter). There are also accomodations at Harmsen Ranch Guest House by reservation. WebsiteGolden Gate Canyon SP website. HuntingNote, there is hunting permitted on the northeastern corner of the park after Labor Day to prior to Memorial Day. PetsPets must be kept under control and on a leash. BoltingPlease note that there are regulations on bolting within the state park that require permits for any new bolts. Crystal Dreiling, senior ranger for GGCSP, will advise us on additional information. ApproachesPlease try to avoid erosional problems with approaches to climbs and social trails. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Golden Gate Canyon SP:
Paddling About 5.5 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Mt Thorodin
Prince of Peace 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Promontory Ridge/The Bear?
Mother Grendel 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Grendel
Mr. Misty 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Mt Thorodin
Mighty Aphrodite 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Dude's Throne
Daneland 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet The Grendel
Dude's Jam Crack 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet Dude's Throne
Short Dude 5.11- Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet Dude's Throne
Pierced Lip Lock 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Grendel
Uplift Mofo Party Plan 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Dude's Throne
Howdy Doody Time 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Dude's Throne
David and Goliath 5.11 R TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Promontory Ridge/The Bear?
Amazing Grace 5.11 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Promontory Ridge/The Bear?
Pumpkinhead 5.11+ TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet Promontory Ridge/The Cub?
Impeachment Day Parade 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Dude's Throne
Sky Chi 5.11d Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Dude's Throne
Golden Gate 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Dude's Throne
Open Space Cowboy 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Dude's Throne
Double Dominatrix 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Dude's Throne
Buster Brown 5.13a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Dude's Throne
Featured Route For Golden Gate Canyon SP
Uplift Mofo Party Plan 5.11b CO : Golden : ... : Dude's Throne
Solve the first steep crux then turn on the afterburners and brachiate from huge rail-jug to rail-jug as the pump factor clock ticks down. Be ready for sustained steepness with big throws all the way to the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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