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Elevation: 9,162 ft
GPS: 39.83694, -105.42453
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: State Park - Fee Required. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

There is a backwoodsy, subalpine, state park with multiple granite crags, some of which may never have been climbed, ranging from 50 to 450 feet in height. A park fee is required to park. The rock is mostly granite ranging from 8000-10000 foot altitude. Beautiful vistas soothe your eyes from belay perches. People have been climbing here since at least the 1950s. There are mostly traditional climbs; however, sport-ish climbs are appearing here more recently. Some approaches exceed an hour. Rocks here include: Mount Thorodin's 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttresses; Ralston Roost; Son of Ralston; Raven Knob, Odin's Good Eye, Odin's Rib Cage, Tremont Mountain, The Bear, The Cub, The Rainbow Bridge, Odin's Throne, rocks near the campgrounds, a bizarre spire named [Redacted] Spire, Dude's Throne, Little Dude's Throne, and The Grendel. There are other intriguing looking crags visible from the road to Panorama Point. Some fixed gear is quite suspect (I pulled an angle out with only light finger pressure).

Getting There Suggest change

From CO Hwy 93 just North of Golden, follow the Golden Gate Canyon road perhaps 18 miles to Golden Gate Canyon State Park. There are multiple crags in the area. The biggest are off Mt. Thorodin, accessed & visible from Panorama Point, up the windy road past Kriley Pond. [Redacted] Spire can be accessed from the [Redacted] Ranch near Panorama Point. Son of Ralston & Ralston Roost can be accessed from Golden Gate Canyon Road.

An alternative routes in which feel very nice include: via White Ranch Park & Golden on Crawford Gulch Rd; via CO 199 and Gilpin Rd/Gap Rd; and via CO 119 to Hwy 46; via Coal Creek Canyon (CO 72), Twin Spruce (near the Bus Sandwich Shop), then Gap Rd.

Camping

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There is camping here both backcountry and at established campgrounds. The backcountry campsites include: Forgotten Valley, Deer Creek, Frazer Meadow, Rim Meadow, and Greenfield Meadow. These campgrounds include Rifleman Phillips Group Campground (reservations only), Reverend's Ridge Campground (limited winter facilities), and Aspen Meadows Campground (closed in winter). There are also accomodations at Harmsen Ranch Guest House by reservation.

Maximum camping stay in the park is 14 days within any 45-day period.

Hunting

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Note, there is hunting permitted on the northeastern corner of the park after Labor Day to prior to Memorial Day.

There is also hunting in the Ralston Creek State Wildlife Area to the southeast of the park.

Pets

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Pets must be kept under control and on a leash.

Bolting

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Please note that there are regulations on bolting within the state park that require permits for any new bolts. Crystal Dreiling, senior ranger for GGCSP, will advise us on additional information.

Approaches

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Please try to avoid erosional problems with approaches to climbs and social trails.

116 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Golden Gate Canyon SP

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 200
Jugs Out For The Lads
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 66
Mother Grendel
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 148
In Harmsen's Way
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 188
Any Doodle Do
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 195
Mighty Aphrodite
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 108
Dude's Jam Crack
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 262
Howdy Doody Time
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 39
Pierced Lip Lock
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 148
Uplift Mofo Party Plan
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 109
Dude's Dihedral
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 70
Golden Gate
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 111
Impeachment Day Parade
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 184
Open Space Cowboy
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 92
Double Dominatrix
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 149
Buster Brown
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jugs Out For The Lads Dude's Throne
 200
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mother Grendel Grendel
 66
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
In Harmsen's Way Dude's Throne
 148
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Any Doodle Do Dude's Throne
 188
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mighty Aphrodite Dude's Throne
 195
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dude's Jam Crack Dude's Throne
 108
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Howdy Doody Time Dude's Throne
 262
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Pierced Lip Lock Grendel
 39
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Uplift Mofo Party Plan Dude's Throne
 148
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dude's Dihedral Dude's Throne
 109
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Golden Gate Dude's Throne
 70
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Impeachment Day Parade Dude's Throne
 111
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Open Space Cowboy Dude's Throne
 184
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Double Dominatrix Dude's Throne
 92
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Buster Brown Dude's Throne
 149
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Golden Gate Canyon SP »

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