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Golden Gate Canyon SP

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Dude's Throne 
Grendel, The 
Lazy Squaw Spire 
Little Dude 
Mt Thorodin 
Promontory Ridge/The Bear? 
Promontory Ridge/The Cub? 
Ralston Roost 
Tremont Mountain 

Golden Gate Canyon SP 


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Location: 39.83694, -105.42453 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 143,797
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002
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Jaime Childers making the F.A. of "Multistory Woma...
State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There is a backwoodsy, subalpine, state park with multiple granite crags, some of which may never have been climbed, ranging from 50 to 450 feet in height. A park fee is required to park. The rock is mostly granite ranging from 8000-10000 foot altitude. Beautiful vistas soothe your eyes from belay perches. People have been climbing here since at least the 1950s. There are mostly traditional climbs; however, sport-ish climbs are appearing here more recently. Some approaches exceed an hour. Rocks here include: Mount Thorodin's 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttresses; Ralston Roost; Son of Ralston; Raven Knob, Odin's Good Eye, Odin's Rib Cage, Tremont Mountain, The Bear, The Cub, The Rainbow Bridge, Odin's Throne, rocks near the campgrounds, a bizarre spire named Lazy Squaw Spire, Dude's Throne, Little Dude's Throne, and The Grendel. There are other intriguing looking crags visible from the road to Panorama Point. Some fixed gear is quite suspect (I pulled an angle out with only light finger pressure).


Getting There 

From CO Hwy 93 just North of Golden, follow the Golden Gate Canyon road perhaps 18 miles to Golden Gate Canyon State Park. There are multiple crags in the area. The biggest are off Mt Thorodin, accessed & visible from Panorama Point, up the windy road past Kriley Pond. Lazy Squaw Spire can be accessed from the Lazy Squaw Ranch near Panorama Point. Son of Ralston & Ralston Roost can be accessed from Golden Gate Canyon Road.

An alternative routes in which feel very nice include: via White Ranch Park & Golden on Crawford Gulch Rd; via CO 199 and Gilpin Rd/Gap Rd; and via CO 119 to Hwy 46; via Coal Creek Canyon (CO 72), Twin Spruce (near the Bus Sandwich Shop), then Gap Rd.


Camping 

There is camping here both backcountry and at established campgrounds. The backcountry campsites include: Forgotten Valley, Deer Creek, Frazer Meadow, Rim Meadow, and Greenfield Meadow. These campgrounds include Rifleman Phillips Group Campground (reservations only), Reverend's Ridge Campground (limited winter facilities), and Aspen Meadows Campground (closed in winter). There are also accomodations at Harmsen Ranch Guest House by reservation.

Maximum camping stay in the park is 14 days within any 45-day period.


Website 

Golden Gate Canyon SP website.


Hunting 

Note, there is hunting permitted on the northeastern corner of the park after Labor Day to prior to Memorial Day.

There is also hunting in the Ralston Creek State Wildlife Area to the southeast of the park.


Pets 

Pets must be kept under control and on a leash.


Bolting 

Please note that there are regulations on bolting within the state park that require permits for any new bolts. Crystal Dreiling, senior ranger for GGCSP, will advise us on additional information.


Approaches 

Please try to avoid erosional problems with approaches to climbs and social trails.


78 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',6],['5.8',9],['5.9',14],['5.10',11],['5.11',23],['5.12',7],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Golden Gate Canyon SP:
Paddling About   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Mt Thorodin
Northwest Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Mt Thorodin
Mother Grendel   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Grendel
Mighty Aphrodite   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dude's Throne
Daneland   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   The Grendel
Dude's Jam Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Dude's Throne
Dude's Way   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Dude's Throne
Short Dude   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Dude's Throne
Dude's Dihedral   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dude's Throne
Uplift Mofo Party Plan   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dude's Throne
Howdy Doody Time   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Dude's Throne
Pierced Lip Lock   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Grendel
Green Chile   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Dude's Throne
Sky Chi   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Dude's Throne
Raven's Brew   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Dude's Throne
Impeachment Day Parade   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Dude's Throne
Golden Gate   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dude's Throne
Open Space Cowboy   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Dude's Throne
Buster Brown   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Dude's Throne
Double Dominatrix   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Dude's Throne
Browse More Classics in Golden Gate Canyon SP

Featured Route For Golden Gate Canyon SP
Howdy Doody Time!!!!!

Howdy Doody Time 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CO : Golden : ... : Dude's Throne
Bring your full bag of tricks for this one; success will demand a bit of route finding, power, and finesse. The movement and exposed positions are memorable to say the least.Climb easy rock onto a ledge above the belay. From the ledge, the route climbs up and left on beautiful gold rock, traverses right into a corner, and continues up onto the arete and face above.Say kids, what time is it?It's Howdy Doody Time!It's Howdy Doody Time.It's Howdy Doody Time.Bob Smith and Howdy DoSay Howd...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Golden Gate Canyon SP
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Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   5
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
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May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

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Photos of Golden Gate Canyon SP Slideshow Add Photo
"Jugs Out For The Lads", an enjoyable romp.
"Jugs Out For The Lads", an enjoyable romp.
The view down while solo on the CMC route. The "crux" proved to be finding a way to fit my little solo pack through the squeeze on the roof pitch. Nice outing.
The view down while solo on the CMC route. The "cr...
Jolly Rancher.
Jolly Rancher.
Mt. Thoridin's 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttresses.
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Thoridin's 1st, 2nd, & 3rd buttresses.
Kirk Miller on Golden Gate, Photo by Vaino Kodas.
Kirk Miller on Golden Gate, Photo by Vaino Kodas.
Lazy Squaw Spire.
BETA PHOTO: Lazy Squaw Spire.
Wendy Weiss following Howdy Doody Time on Dude's Crag. Golden Gate Canyon State Park.
Wendy Weiss following Howdy Doody Time on Dude's C...
Along the ridge of Mt. Thorodin.
Along the ridge of Mt. Thorodin.
Mark Rolofson climbs Red Hot Chili Pepper in the Throne Room.
Mark Rolofson climbs Red Hot Chili Pepper in the T...
Along the ridge of Mt. Thorodin. View of the 3rd from the 2nd.
Along the ridge of Mt. Thorodin. View of the 3rd f...
More beautiful ridgeline on Mt. Thorodin. Wish it went on for miles and miles like this.
More beautiful ridgeline on Mt. Thorodin. Wish it ...
A curious chunk of rock below Lazy Squaw Spire.
A curious chunk of rock below Lazy Squaw Spire.
Comments on Golden Gate Canyon SP Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
May 14, 2004

Have lived in sight of Golden Gate State Park for 40 years. It is called Mt. Thorodin, not Thoridin. The name is a combination of Thor and Odin. I therefore think it much more fitting for climbers to call the granite crag system: Ragnarok Ridge rather than the awful "Reverend Ridge", the name given by the State. It also fits with the crags: there is a formation that looks exactly like "Odin's Good Eye" (near the center, below the upper formations), another I call Odin's Rib Cage (the furthest North), "The Rainbow Bridge" (the southernmost), and Odin's Throne (the 2nd crag with "Misty" et al.) I hope others agree with my designations. Thanks: I'll be up there this summer doing a few (easy) new routes. There are lots of them still left.

By Kirk Ranney
Jul 23, 2006

If anyone has more beta regarding the crags not listed here, please let me know. Is there a guidebook containing any info? I am interested in easy/moderate lines, feel free to email me if you have any suggestions.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 23, 2006

Without my guidebooks, I recall this being listed in Hubbel's Colorado Crags & ?a smaller guidebook by Hubbel...perhaps the Lyon's guide? Beyond that, I can't recall seeing other published materials.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 4, 2007

Yes, it's in the Falcon Guide Classic Climbs Lyons Area guide book by Peter Hubbel.

By Mark Rolofson
Sep 23, 2010

I just wrote and published a new guidebook titled "Golden Rock Climbs" that includes the climbs near Aspen Meadow Campground and Dude's Fishing Hole. These are some of my favorite sport climbs in the state of Colorado. There are about 50 routes. Enjoy from Spring to Fall. Lots of good overhanging routes for a pump. This guide is also for North Table Mountain with the four newly developed quarry walls.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 23, 2010

Nice, Mark!!!!

By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Sep 23, 2010

I dig the book, Mark. We've been enjoying Dude's for a while now and are psyched to check out Grendel, which has always looked intriguing from afar. It's nice to know that we still might have a quiet sport place up in the park due to the longer approach. Thanks for the hard work put in by yourself and the other fellas.

By David "The Phoenix" Hall
From: Littleton, CO
Mar 22, 2011

Does anyone know any info on bouldering in the area? There are several boulders that can be seen from the visitor's center (looking north) that I checked out the other day and spent half my time cleaning. So it would seem that they've either, never been climbed before (which I find hard to believe), or that they just haven't been climbed in quite a long time.

By FlyinRyan
Aug 25, 2011

Can someone please move the map marker for this place? It is at least 30 min out from Golden, but it shows right in the middle of the city. Nice place to climb, has plenty of bolted routes but they are green due to lack of traffic. You should definitely check it out!