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Golden Beaver Left
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, Ray Ringle 1986 |
Page Views: | 7,510 total · 43/month |
Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 14, 2009 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Technical hard face climbing around a crack then really technical finger locks to finish it off. Three bolts, two of which were placed to replace a couple of drilled pins. At this time the route has been done on gear alone and the bolts were skipped. Braxton Norwood called it the Brazilian Beaver if you skip the bolts.
Protection
4 bolts and gear up to a green camalot. The route has now been climbed without clipping the bolts. Good gear can be found but it is difficult to find bomber gear and place it. A few of the placements were found on TR runs using bolts to back up until the integrity of the piece was verified.
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