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Corey low on P3 of the Golden Arch on the UTW. Thi...
(IMO) P3 of this route is one of the best aid lines at Index
an old classic that needs some work.
P1: Manky bolts need replacing. Use P1 of Abraxus or Waterway to access the ledge. Waterway P1 will get you to the belay ledge at the end of Golden Arch P2. Abraxus P1 & P2 will get you there too.
P2: Follow the groove with nuts and bashies to the main belay ledge
P3: (C2) A thin dihedral starts dead vertical and slowly rolls to the right. Bring offset cams, brass nuts, cam hooks and ballnuts. This pitch is generally climbed clean
The belay at the start of P3 was replaced in 2009. The belay at the end of the pitch is 3x 5 piece bolts in good condition. this is an amazing place to spend the night on a ledge. It's protected by a large roof.
P4: (A3) Hook sketchy flakes and clip old bashies around the corner to gear climbing. GO up to the belay (unknown status).
P5+: didn't do
Follow the UTW trail to the main wall, head to the right and find Abraxus or the Waterway. P1 starts on the overhang in between. Look for some manky bolts up high.
Cams to 3# offset nuts and cam hooks a must
Corey high on P3 of Golden Arch on the UTW.
By Jacob Smith
From: Mill Creek, WA
Aug 28, 2014
Does anyone know if the bolts on the first pitch have been replaced? Or is everyone just using Waterway to access Madsen's ledge?