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Unsorted Routes:

Golden Age 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Morgan Patterson 06/10/12 (TR)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,760
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Jun 12, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Ragged Arete

Location 

The Ragged Arete

Description 

Starting about 10 ft right of Carey's Corner crack, step up to the start holds for Cygnus X-1. Climb to the decent horizontal just below the large overlap, follow the horizontal left for several feet and reach up to a large jug/rest at the base of the Ragged Arete where it joins the face. Layback out the arete to gain a stance just below the small overlap. From the small overlap continue up the arete using decent holds to a good stance (almost no hands). From this rest stance work several tenuous moves to an undercling flake on the corner. At the flake make a crux swinging move (utilizing the sidepull on the flake) left around the corner. Once established on the left side of the arete, work a compression sequence up the seam and arete to the top of the Ragged Arete. Fist pump.

I believe this is an FA, if you know otherwise speak up! This line is a link up, Swan Song into Black Orchid.

Protection 

An anchor and a top rope...


Photos of Golden Age Slideshow Add Photo
Golden Age
BETA PHOTO: Golden Age

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 8, 2014
By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jun 26, 2013

you should bolt it, lead it and then chop it so nobody else can lead it with bolts
By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jun 26, 2013

then talk shit about it
By The Phoenix
Jun 27, 2013

yo you mean like ken "do as I say not as I did" nichols?
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 18, 2014

Still... no second ascent??? Come'mon CT who doesn't love a good TR?
By guy bon
Jun 20, 2014

invalid until lead clean. c'mon momo, sack up and get out your duct tape. All I see is an open project ;)
By Echoinfi
Jun 20, 2014

Removable boltl technology does exist. I think you should lead it and get the FA
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 23, 2014

Ha... already got the FFA haha! U might be able to do it on gear but it'd be R/X probably and drilling holes in that just to place RB's (that aren't meant to hold whippers) seems kinda silly.

Historically everything on this corner has been done on TR and claimed as FA/FFA. Sam Slater & Swan Song, Bill Lutkis and Black Orchid (FA on aid then TR for FFA), KN and Cygnus X. Though to be the first to lead a route on this corner would be pretty impressive.
By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jun 26, 2014

RBs hold whips, no excuse.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 26, 2014

So who wants to pitch in some loot?? I'll get the ninja suit ready...
By JIncillo
Jun 27, 2014

Why do they have to be removable....
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 8, 2014

RMF prohibits the placement of any fixed gear. As their by-law is written, a climber could infact drill holes and place removable gear and still be in compliance. None of the routes on this arete have ever been lead... that's the draw.