Starting about 10 ft right of Carey's Corner crack, step up to the start holds for Cygnus X-1. Climb to the decent horizontal just below the large overlap, follow the horizontal left for several feet and reach up to a large jug/rest at the base of the Ragged Arete where it joins the face. Layback out the arete to gain a stance just below the small overlap. From the small overlap continue up the arete using decent holds to a good stance (almost no hands). From this rest stance work several tenuous moves to an undercling flake on the corner. At the flake make a crux swinging move (utilizing the sidepull on the flake) left around the corner. Once established on the left side of the arete, work a compression sequence up the seam and arete to the top of the Ragged Arete. Fist pump.
I believe this is an FA, if you know otherwise speak up! This line is a link up, Swan Song into Black Orchid.
Ha... already got the FFA haha! U might be able to do it on gear but it'd be R/X probably and drilling holes in that just to place RB's (that aren't meant to hold whippers) seems kinda silly.
Historically everything on this corner has been done on TR and claimed as FA/FFA. Sam Slater & Swan Song, Bill Lutkis and Black Orchid (FA on aid then TR for FFA), KN and Cygnus X. Though to be the first to lead a route on this corner would be pretty impressive.
By MJMobes From: The land of steady habits Jun 26, 2014
RMF prohibits the placement of any fixed gear. As their by-law is written, a climber could infact drill holes and place removable gear and still be in compliance. None of the routes on this arete have ever been lead... that's the draw.