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Sky Lab (incomplete) T 
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Thin Man S 
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Underdog S 
Via Ferrata S 

Goldbug 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg
Page Views: 2,161
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Buddy the Elf making it through the crux... Merry ...

Description 

This is the corner climb between Know Ethics(5.10d) and Gold Digger(5.8+). It shares the hard technical nature of its neighbor to the left without being quite as hair raising (for some reason Know Ethics can be a bit heady).

As with all the climbs in this section start up easy ground on good holds for the first 20 or so feet and get nestled in to the corner where the business happens. Solid stemming and trust in your feet are a must on this one. Work your way somewhat awkwardly up the well protected crux corner to a stance above. At this point you meet up with Gold Digger (5.8+) right before its crux. Instead of going out right like that route you want to make a few more hard moves straight up and on to the anchors.


Location 

There are 3 corner climbs on the right hand side of the orangish band of rock at center Main Cliff. This is the middle one.


Protection 

7 bolts to anchor (quickies i think)



Photos of Goldbug Slideshow Add Photo
Buddy the elf mantels out of the crux corner... <br />photo: kevin Macartney
Buddy the elf mantels out of the crux corner...
ph...
nicole headed up the corner of goldbug after starting on gold digger...
nicole headed up the corner of goldbug after start...
jeff on the upper part of the bug
jeff on the upper part of the bug
digging in to the micro gaston...
digging in to the micro gaston...
Tim on the last crux move.
Tim on the last crux move.
jeff cruxing
jeff cruxing
a bit of a reach to that clip if your aren't tall...
a bit of a reach to that clip if your aren't tall....
Erik doing the high step.
Erik doing the high step.
jeff
jeff
Comments on Goldbug Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 16, 2014
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 29, 2007

I just climbed this route again recently and found it to have gotten harder for some reason... it looked like the left footholds in the corner had crumbled and i found i needed to do a long reach to get through the crux...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I did this route for the first time and through the crux i only stemmed once the rest was face climbing, with a long reach to a small crimp. ton of fun though

FA: Jim Shimberg

By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 23, 2009

Yeah I used matthew's beta and it felt about right for the grade

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

yeah i thought it was about right for the grade...

i thought a fun link up would be the start and crux of goldbug then the upper part and crux of gold digger has anyone done this link up? you would get a good rest between the two hard parts but it looks fun.

By twellman
Feb 15, 2010

Matt, I did that link up today. It was quite fun. I also did the link up of golddigger to goldbug corner finish before it, for a little criss-cross action. The clipping is a bit weird, but both are possible and fun. The crux of golddigger felt pretty hard for 5.8... some very small holds as you cross that upper face.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 16, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

yeah twellman, the face of gold digger, is hard it gets the 5.8 grade if you climb the corner until you can just reach over and get the big jug, staying on that really thin face is harder then 5.8 for sure. I have done the digger to bug link but not the other one yeah, Glad you enjoyed it.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

My friend Bob and his friend Ralph, 2 old school 60-something year old climbers, encouraged me to try this today with no beta (except that "the crux is well protected"). I am quite glad they did! This was a great climb with some really fun slab moves.

By S. Neoh
Sep 16, 2012

I had my ass handed to me on this route recently. I felt quite horrible until I (just) read Lee's post about the crumbled footholds on the left wall and doing a long reach. I remember being able to smear a lot more in the corner BITD. What grade would people give the Digger to Bug linkup? I saw a friend do it the other day and it looked good.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

When I did this yesterday, I kept out of the dihedral. It was thin but not terrible.

By S. Neoh
Sep 16, 2012

Matt, you wrote somewhere you are 6-foot tall; that makes a difference for the slab move/crux .... by far the hardest move on the route for me.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

You are correct. However, my climbing partner who climbed after me is about 5'4". He went even farther right than me, essentially staying on the arete. He did a thumb gaston on one of the micro crimps.

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A good route because there are a number of ways to do the crux section in the big copper colored open-book. It's not just, "Those are the moves, go for it!" Different sized bodies and different kinds of climbers will do it different ways. Nice'n technical and not strenuous at all.

By chris21
Nov 21, 2013

S. Noah, that link-up(digger-bug) is a fun 5.8

By J Meagher
Feb 16, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I worked out all the moves on this yesterday on toprope, it was pretty wet but still doable. I really like the super technical movement on this, it might be my new main cliff favorite (sorry underdog). Just a heads up, in the schist groove above the crux corner there is a loose rock on the right side of the groove, its not too obvious from below but its right where you want a foothold so be careful. I don't think it'll pop anytime in the very near future but keep on your toes

By Darren Josey
Jul 16, 2014

The right quick clip at the anchor is getting a bit worn, the left looks fine as of 7/13/14.