Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ali Babbler 
As The World Burns 
Beat Junkie 
Fat Man 
Fear of Abraham 
Gold Digger 
Goldbug Finish 
Gunboat Diplomacy 
Iron Man 
Know Ethics 
Little Big Man 
Millenium Falcon 
Peanut Man 
Rap Echo 
Rock de Jour 
Rock Du Jours Direct 
Rocket Man 
Simon Bar Sinister 
Skewer, The 
Sky Lab (incomplete) 
Soup to Nuts 
Space Shuttle 
Steel Curtain 
Supersize Me 
Sweet Polly Purebred 
Thang, The 
Thin Man 
Thing, The 
Via Ferrata 

Goldbug Finish 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: jim shimburg
Page Views: 437
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 22, 2008
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View


It's not so much that its a bad route it's just so reachy that if you're not 7ft tall the holds are hard to get to. However if you can reach them (I'm 6'2" and I can just barely make the reaches) the moves are really cool the holds are great and the top out I found to be technical and super fun. If you like this style of climbing--BIG moves to good crimps and a technical top out--hop on it.

Climb Goldbug (5.10b) or the Digger-bug link up (5.9) to the Goldbug anchor. Clip a long runner to the anchor and step right to the nice ledge.

There are very few moves but they are big ones. Move up to a good crimp left of the first draw. Make a huge move up and right to a half pad incut crimp. Make another big move up and left to a nice flat full pad crimp. The feet kinda suck here so making the last big move to a sloper is a bit challenging. Once you get the sloper you make techy moves heading right until you can pull a mantel on to a ledge and climb a few easy moves to the anchors.


From the Gold Bug anchors, head up and right following bolts up a short overhung wall.


From the Goldbug anchor there are 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Long draws may be helpful to reduce rope drag on the lower pitch.

Comments on Goldbug Finish Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 29, 2011

Heinous for me. I couldn't touch the thing even when I was climbing a number grade harder. VERY reachy with reachy clips. Jim is a monkey man.

FA - Jim Shimberg

By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 18, 2013

Got back on this yesterday and quickly found beta that made it feel almost easy for the grade and not crazy reachy. I don't know how I missed it before. I start to the right and go up to a good right hand side pull that gets me the reach to the crimp up and left ( the half pad incut Lee mentions). Match the crimp and dyno up left to a good hold. Then it is just popping to the pinchy lip, matching, foot out right and reach left to a big pinchy sidepull.

Rumor has it that the bolts will be replaced soon with nice big glue-ins(if not closed for the birds) Hopefully they will be a little easier to clip.