|South Summit Wall
Great route on excellent rock. Exciting traversing and route finding.
P 1 - Ascend a stepped right facing corner and finger crack for 140' to a belay.(5.9)
P 2 - Climb a beautiful hand crack. Traverse right under the first roof. Move up to the second roof and continue right around it to a hanging belay or continue higher to a narrow ledge. Great, improbable pitch. (5.9) Les at his best!
P3 - Follow ramps and corners leftward to a belay near the top. (5.7)
P4 - Scramble to the top. (5.5)
Hike up the talus to a point below the left side of the long roof above.
Standard rack, mostly small & medium cams, many runners.
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 8, 2012
Easy to link the last 2 pitches with one 60m rope. The 2nd pitch is the most unique I've done in the Wasatch. Beware of loose sections on pitch 3 and at the top out.
|By Sam Cannon|
From: Holladay, Utah
19 hours ago
This page would benefit from a topo! I had a picture of the Ruckman topo and the MP description of the pitches. From a failed attempt at the route here's my take:
Finding P1 can be confusing if you just have the description here which lists the first pitch as a right facing corner. Climb up the gully (there was a finger of snow we had to work around) until you come to a bolt for the belayer. I'm pretty sure this marks the start of the route. Across from the bolt, on the wall, you'll see a small left facing corner. Climb this to get to a right facing corner comprised of a set of steps.
This is where I got off, I think. I was looking for a "beautiful handcrack" to mark the start of P2. I found a beautiful finger/tips crack below a huge/complex series of roofs just left of center on the wall. The tips crack looked hard, with a very sketchy, ill-protected traverse possibly going off to the right. It looked extremely committing with very little gear. I think I had gone too far up the right/corner staircase, and was maybe too far left on the wall. We bailed off a nut and some cordelette.
I could not see a "beautiful handcrack" anywhere. Perhaps it's been filled with plants/dirt?
Can someone PM me (or better yet, post here) and let me know if I was on route, or had gone too far? I'd really like to complete the route.
| || The circle on the left is more or less where we bailed, the circle on the right is a bolt with what looked like a rap ring on it that I was thinking maybe was part of the traverse |