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South Summit Wall
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Gold Wall 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Les Ellison & Chris Noble in1980
Page Views: 1,043
Submitted By: bsmoot on Jun 13, 2010

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Looking up at the Gold Wall

Description 

Great route on excellent rock. Exciting traversing and route finding.

P 1 - Ascend a stepped right facing corner and finger crack for 140' to a belay.(5.9)

P 2 - Climb a beautiful hand crack. Traverse right under the first roof. Move up to the second roof and continue right around it to a hanging belay or continue higher to a narrow ledge. Great, improbable pitch. (5.9) Les at his best!

P3 - Follow ramps and corners leftward to a belay near the top. (5.7)

P4 - Scramble to the top. (5.5)


Location 

Hike up the talus to a point below the left side of the long roof above.


Protection 

Standard rack, mostly small & medium cams, many runners.



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P1
P1
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By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 8, 2012

Easy to link the last 2 pitches with one 60m rope. The 2nd pitch is the most unique I've done in the Wasatch. Beware of loose sections on pitch 3 and at the top out.

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
19 hours ago

This page would benefit from a topo! I had a picture of the Ruckman topo and the MP description of the pitches. From a failed attempt at the route here's my take:

Finding P1 can be confusing if you just have the description here which lists the first pitch as a right facing corner. Climb up the gully (there was a finger of snow we had to work around) until you come to a bolt for the belayer. I'm pretty sure this marks the start of the route. Across from the bolt, on the wall, you'll see a small left facing corner. Climb this to get to a right facing corner comprised of a set of steps.

This is where I got off, I think. I was looking for a "beautiful handcrack" to mark the start of P2. I found a beautiful finger/tips crack below a huge/complex series of roofs just left of center on the wall. The tips crack looked hard, with a very sketchy, ill-protected traverse possibly going off to the right. It looked extremely committing with very little gear. I think I had gone too far up the right/corner staircase, and was maybe too far left on the wall. We bailed off a nut and some cordelette.

I could not see a "beautiful handcrack" anywhere. Perhaps it's been filled with plants/dirt?

Can someone PM me (or better yet, post here) and let me know if I was on route, or had gone too far? I'd really like to complete the route.

The circle on the left is more or less where we bailed, the circle on the right is a bolt with what looked like a rap ring on it that I was thinking maybe was part of the traverse
The circle on the left is more or less where we bailed, the circle on the right is a bolt with what looked like a rap ring on it that I was thinking maybe was part of the traverse