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Gold Wall 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Les Ellison & Chris Noble in1980
Page Views: 1,511
Submitted By: bsmoot on Jun 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Looking up at the Gold Wall


Great route on excellent rock. Exciting traversing and route finding.

P 1 - Ascend a stepped right facing corner and finger crack for 140' to a belay.(5.9)

P 2 - Climb a beautiful hand crack. Traverse right under the first roof. Move up to the second roof and continue right around it to a hanging belay or continue higher to a narrow ledge. Great, improbable pitch. (5.9) Les at his best!

P3 - Follow ramps and corners leftward to a belay near the top. (5.7)

P4 - Scramble to the top. (5.5)


Hike up the talus to a point below the left side of the long roof above.


Standard rack, mostly small & medium cams, many runners.

Photos of Gold Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P1

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By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 8, 2012

Easy to link the last 2 pitches with one 60m rope. The 2nd pitch is the most unique I've done in the Wasatch. Beware of loose sections on pitch 3 and at the top out.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Jul 23, 2014

This page would benefit from a topo! I had a picture of the Ruckman topo and the MP description of the pitches. From a failed attempt at the route here's my take:

Finding P1 can be confusing if you just have the description here which lists the first pitch as a right facing corner. Climb up the gully (there was a finger of snow we had to work around) until you come to a bolt for the belayer. I'm pretty sure this marks the start of the route. Across from the bolt, on the wall, you'll see a small left facing corner. Climb this to get to a right facing corner comprised of a set of steps.

This is where I got off, I think. I was looking for a "beautiful handcrack" to mark the start of P2. I found a beautiful finger/tips crack below a huge/complex series of roofs just left of center on the wall. The tips crack looked hard, with a very sketchy, ill-protected traverse possibly going off to the right. It looked extremely committing with very little gear. I think I had gone too far up the right/corner staircase, and was maybe too far left on the wall. We bailed off a nut and some cordelette.

I could not see a "beautiful handcrack" anywhere. Perhaps it's been filled with plants/dirt?

Can someone PM me (or better yet, post here) and let me know if I was on route, or had gone too far? I'd really like to complete the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The circle on the left is more or less where we ba...
The circle on the left is more or less where we bailed, the circle on the right is a bolt with what looked like a rap ring on it that I was thinking maybe was part of the traverse
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Jul 24, 2014

As a followup, I was messaged by a friend who has climbed the route and it seems like I was on route. The bolt I circled on the right in the pic is for "Heart of Gold." It seems I was, in fact, on route, and that the traverse unfolds as you commit to it. My friend confirmed that the "hand crack" mentioned here and in the Ruckman guide is an inaccurate description. From what I could tell the crack leading up to the traverse was a clean fingers/tips crack.


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