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(8) Golden Valley
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Gold Member 
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Gold Member 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown, likely only on TR
Season: Faces E/NE
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 11, 2009
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Description 

A reasonably good but short climb typical for this area of the wall. There are 8 consecutive routes, all but one of which are 5.9 to 5.10c, and for all of those, the crux is pulling up over the low initial roof into some reachy, hidden holds.
Place gear below the low roof, crank the crux moves (10b) and cruise up with good gear to the top traverse, an airy but moderate move left to the anchors.


Location 

This is the second to the right-most route on the 'Gold Wall' group, a group of climbs forming the left (South) vertical horizon if you look in that direction from the central area of the Golden Valley.
Approach by scrambling up on a series of 1-meter-tall blocks onto a large ledge.
Gold Member starts off of the right edge of this ledge and climbs up to the roof (3 meters), then over it just a few feet left of 'Gold Club' on jugs and cracks. The climb continues up the left-most of the 2 cracks (the right being 'Gold Club') to a horizontal up high, where you traverse left to a shared fixed anchor (bolts and chain) and rap or lower off.


Protection 

Each of these routes requires a rack up to 3" and a long sling or two (2' to 3' is perfect) for protection under the roof.



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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Feb 16, 2014

Can be continued to the top of the wall (5.8)