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Gold Lion T,S 
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Wonderland T,S 

Gold Lion 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough & James Dickson
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012

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Description 

Start 10 right of Gentle Violence near the tree.
P1: Climb up to the first bolt and make the crux move lunge to a rail and pocket (bolt). Move up into the left sweeping arch. Pull up the left side to a stance (bolt). Make tricky moves to gain a blind placement (.75 in the left side works good) in a horizontal. Pull onto the ledge and a two bolt anchor under the roof. 55 5.10+
P2: Clip a bolt over the roof (aid was used to pull the roof) and make hard moves to a ledge. Move up a series of headwalls placing gear to a two bolt anchor below the trees. 70 5.8 A0.


Location 

10' right of gentle violence


Protection 

standard rack



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