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Goldilocks Wall
Routes Sorted
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Baby Bear T 
Gold Dust S 
Goldielocks S,TR 
Hot Shit TR 
Mama Bear T 
Papa Bear T,TR 
Wolf Crack T,TR 

Gold Dust 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Max Jones, 1977
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Aug 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Gold Dust Topo

Description 

Although one of the shorter climbs on the wall this packs a punch. Bolted it maybe, typical sport climb it is not.

Start at the overhang on the leftside of the wall. Make a tricky and committing sequence of moves up to the first bolt (spotter recommended). From the bolt move up left to a good flake and the 2nd bolt. Continue direct to the break (optional, and highly recommended cam).

From the break it is possible to escape left onto the large shelf, however to complete a good climb, continue directly up the arete to the anchors.


Location 

Left side of the wall


Protection 

2 bolts and triple bolt anchor. Option 1.5" cam in break below the top



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By Lurker
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Only R-rated (.5 or .75 Camalot, can't remember) if you skip the cam placement after the second bolt. If you do skip the cam placement and blow the move, you might be facing groundfall potential.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 4, 2012

Although it may not appear as such from the ground, I thought this was one of the best routes on this wall. It is very sustained and offers a wide variety of moves from boulder problems, to hard crimps, to steep jug rests.