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Main Cliff
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Gold Digger 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Smith 11/99
Page Views: 3,220
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (88)
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nicole in the corner

Description 

Climb up the farthest right groove on the central Main Clif. Moderate and fun moves lead to a stance in a corner... climb the interesting corner to another stance and a hard-for-the-grade exit to the right from the corner. Easier if tall, a jug awaits just out of reach.

The easiest route in this area. Often dry when other routes of the grade are soaked.

"Digger-bug (5.8)" is a popular link up that does the 1st 2/3 of Gold Digger (5.8+) but then where that route has a puzzling step right (crux) you instead clip the last two bolts of Gold Bug (5.10c/d) out to your left as you climb up the very pleasant stemming corner above to the Gold Bug Anchors... This has become a popular moderate option and proves to be an easy way to set a toprope Gold Bug (5.10c/d)...

Location 

Far right side of the central section of Main Cliff. Following the deepest groove in the area.

Protection 

8 bolts to quick clips.


Photos of Gold Digger Slideshow Add Photo
nicole getting her stem on!
nicole getting her stem on!
one more in the corner
one more in the corner
nicole on the link up
nicole on the link up
Lily Hallet on Gold Digger on a cold day in early ...
Lily Hallet on Gold Digger on a cold day in early ...
nicole looking up the corner
nicole looking up the corner
Otey trying to get warm on a cold day on Gold Digg...
Otey trying to get warm on a cold day on Gold Digg...
Otey on Gold Digger, Heading up for the Digger-Bug...
Otey on Gold Digger, Heading up for the Digger-Bug...

Comments on Gold Digger Add Comment
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By Mike Phillips
From: Pittsburgh
Jul 18, 2011

An OK climb that serves as a good warm up. Watch out during the summer. I just was on it and there was a small hornets nest in a undercling/jug about halfway up the route. Luckily didn't get stuck but certainly got surprised.
By kenr
Aug 5, 2011

I was following, but my leader (against my advice) avoided the tricky move right, and instead finished climbing sort of left-ward up to bolt anchors (which I assume are intended for the adjoining climb to the left, Goldbug). That finish didn't seem harder than 5.9, maybe less.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 6, 2011

kenr: It's actually a popular linkup called digger bug. I think it goes at 5.8 or so and is an easy way to top rope Goldbug. I've never actually climbed to the anchors of Gold Digger. :)
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 10, 2013

I have somehow avoided this route up until today. Big mistake! Fun and interesting moves, cool heady crux, great climb if you are looking for a moderate in the area. I'm going to have to do the diggerbug link up soon.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 16, 2013

Both quick clips at top are severely worn and showing a pretty significant groove. I would advise people to rap off this until they can be replaced. I have let the RCA know.

Just a reminder to not top rope through the fixed gear!!!!!
By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Jul 31, 2014

I found the crux to be very exciting for the grade. Crux move reminds of of the Gunks!