Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
(8) Golden Valley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Around the Corner 
Aus der Traum 
Black & Tan 
Black Gold 
Black Magic Woman 
Climax 
Cold Sushi 
Conditional Reality 
Convenient 
Dragon's Back 
Dragon's Nose 
Dripping Dragon 
Gold Club 
Gold Member 
Golden Shower 
Goldline 
I Love Taiwan 
Inconvenient 
Kevlar Vest 
Let's Do The Trad 
Never 
Nugget 
Pearl Necklace 
Snake Alley 
String Bikini 
Tanz en Den Mai 
Teamwork 
Tofu Tower 
Very Inconvenient 
Wet and Hairy 
White-Faced Man 
Yosemite Crack 

Gold Club 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Faces E/NE
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 12, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Hiroshi going for the top

Description 

The grade will depend on the length of one's arms and skill with roofs, as the crux is pulling over a 3' roof on this route, with gear on a long sling below (make sure it is solid). The crux can be protected additionally by the horizontal over the lip, where budding 5.9 leaders will get a kick out of bomber heel-hooks and a mantle. Continue up the right of two cracks (the left being Gold Member) to the top where the two cracks merge and then end. From there, traverse leftward over exposed space, protecting with a solid, finger-sized cam in a horizontal, to reach a set of fixed anchors with chain.


Location 

This is the right-most route on the 'Gold Wall' group, a group of climbs forming the left (South) vertical horizon if you look in that direction from the central area of the Golden Valley.
Approach by scrambling up on a series of 1-meter-tall blocks onto a large ledge.
Gold Member starts off of the far right edge of this ledge and climbs up to the roof (3 meters), and out on the right-most line of cracks up to a fixed anchor reached via a protected by airy traverse up top.


Protection 

Gear to 3.5" cams. Up top a bolt and chain anchor.



Photos of Gold Club Slideshow Add Photo
route
BETA PHOTO: route
Maudie & I over rough seas in late September, 2012
Maudie & I over rough seas in late September, 2012
Comments on Gold Club Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Feb 16, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Can be continued to the top of the wall (5.8)