|(4) Golden Valley
The grade will depend on the length of one's arms and skill with roofs, as the crux is pulling over a 3' roof on this route, with gear on a long sling below (make sure it is solid). The crux can be protected additionally by the horizontal over the lip, where budding 5.9 leaders will get a kick out of bomber heel-hooks and a mantle. Continue up the right of two cracks (the left being Gold Member) to the top where the two cracks merge and then end. From there, traverse leftward over exposed space, protecting with a solid, finger-sized cam in a horizontal, to reach a set of fixed anchors with chain.
This is the right-most route on the 'Gold Wall' group, a group of climbs forming the left (South) vertical horizon if you look in that direction from the central area of the Golden Valley.
Approach by scrambling up on a series of 1-meter-tall blocks onto a large ledge.
Gold Member starts off of the far right edge of this ledge and climbs up to the roof (3 meters), and out on the right-most line of cracks up to a fixed anchor reached via a protected by airy traverse up top.
Gear to 3.5" cams. Up top a bolt and chain anchor.
BETA PHOTO: route
Maudie & I over rough seas in late September, 2012
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Feb 16, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Can be continued to the top of the wall (5.8)