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Gold Chasm

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Swift Trip T 

Gold Chasm Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.541, -119.8013 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 696
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: andy patterson on Jul 9, 2007
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Includes a small collection of quality routes, including Swift Trip, the best 5.11 lieback west of Indian Creek. Okay, that's an exaggeration, but it's a cool line for sure. If you're looking to push your trad hard-man skills, this pitch is for you, but first consider the tick-infested approach. On my first trip here, I pulled over fifty off my pants.

The first section of Swift Trip, a high quality 5.8 lieback crack, can be led and toproped seperate from the rest of the climb via some old bolts. I don't know what kind of bolts they are exactly, but they looked old, rusty, slightly bent, and the rock around them is on the soft side. Don't say I didn't warn you...

Getting There 

From Santa Barbara, drive north on 154, take a right on Paradise Valley road and drive till you pass the first river crossing. Take a left and head towards Upper Oso Campground. Just before you hit the campsite, the crag can be seen to your right. Park here. There are a number of what seems to be cattle trails that lead in myriad directions, all of them bad and bush-ridden. My advice is to stay high and try not to get sucked into the creek.

Climbing Season

For the Santa Barbara area.

Weather station 1.1 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Gold Chasm

Swift Trip 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : Central Coast : ... : Gold Chasm
Hand jam your way up an obvious 5.8 lieback crack to a sandy ledge. From here, you can lower off a questionable bolt anchor, or you may continue diagonally up and left via strenuous finger-locks (5.11). The rock on the second section doesn't see a lot of ascents and is therefore on the chossy side, but increased traffic and (perhaps) a motivated bloke with a brush could turn this route into a classic pitch. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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