Includes a small collection of quality routes, including Swift Trip, the best 5.11 lieback west of Indian Creek. Okay, that's an exaggeration, but it's a cool line for sure. If you're looking to push your trad hard-man skills, this pitch is for you, but first consider the tick-infested approach. On my first trip here, I pulled over fifty off my pants.
From Santa Barbara, drive north on 154, take a right on Paradise Valley road and drive till you pass the first river crossing. Take a left and head towards Upper Oso Campground. Just before you hit the campsite, the crag can be seen to your right. Park here. There are a number of what seems to be cattle trails that lead in myriad directions, all of them bad and bush-ridden. My advice is to stay high and try not to get sucked into the creek.
Featured Route For Gold Chasm
Hand jam your way up an obvious 5.8 lieback crack to a sandy ledge. From here, you can lower off a questionable bolt anchor, or you may continue diagonally up and left via strenuous finger-locks (5.11). The rock on the second section doesn't see a lot of ascents and is therefore on the chossy side, but increased traffic and (perhaps) a motivated bloke with a brush could turn this route into a classic pitch. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA