Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Red Springs Rock Lower Tier
Select Route:
Aliens Have Landed T,TR 
Carrie Fissure T 
Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo T 
Hans Soloing T 
Obie-One Keone TR 
Shallow Fried Cracken T 

Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Swain & Patty Gill
Page Views: 613
Submitted By: 46and2 on Apr 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Just past the one bolt and into the double thin cr...

Description 

Surprisingly fun route with great moves and lots of varied climbing. This would be a pretty serious lead with some THIN gear placements. Starts with a boulder problem type start then moves left to the twin thin cracks/seams to the top of the cliff.


Location 

This route is about 20 feet to the right of Shallow Fried Cracken and is easy to spot as it is the only climb with a bolt on this entire wall; start on the steep face under the bolt.


Protection 

There is one bolt with a bad unrated hanger about 15 feet up from the start of the climb. Then use some really thin gear and follow the thin cracks to the top. Take some gear and you can build an anchor off the large blocks on top of the climb. Walk off left as per "Aliens Have Landed". This climb is pretty easy to set up as a top rope!!



Photos of Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo Slideshow Add Photo
Right at the crux; this route is steeper than it appears in this photo!
Right at the crux; this route is steeper...
Comments on Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

this is a serious lead with thin gear and insecure movement above it. i got through it, but be SOLID at 5.10 or you'll be very unhappy above that old ass bolt.

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Oct 10, 2007

One of the best route names EVER!

By cslice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 12, 2011

Did this one today...the appeal of short approach lured me in. There are so many good climbs at Red Rocks, I would not waste my time on this one. The rock was rather manky and crumbly and the moves were more annoying than fun.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 19, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Great lead! A very heads up one though. Great moves on decent holds and finger locks. Bring the brass and offsets.

By Mostafa
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 12, 2012

I made the moves down low which are pretty fun but about 40 feet up I traversed right and that was a big mistake...the rock was horrible and scary gear placements.

By Zappatista
Aug 13, 2012

Never trust a Swain route. Good lesson to learn, chum.

By Murphski
From: SLC, UT
Jun 22, 2014

I climbed this quite awhile back (years.) I remember it being a total piece of shit. There's one hold with chalk all over it that seems to be the key to getting past the steep part. I watched this hold move back and forth under my foot while I was protected by one of the mankiest bolts I've seen. In the corner above I found one pod that I was able to get a questionable Red Metolious in, other than that I found nowhere to put gear (I was still pretty new to trad climbing, and I'm still pretty unsure about passive placements.) At the top I put my hand in some very fine cacti needles while I looked for the anchor (yes, I know there's never been an anchor, and after awhile I did build one.) So if super scary trad climbing with questionable placements and holds and picking cacti out of your palm is your thing, then get after this one.