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Gold Bar Canyon
Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Glove

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Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Glove

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Cam Clean

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Patagonia Men's Doubledown Parka

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Camp - Group II Harness

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Gregory Diablo 6 Daypack - 320cu in

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Rox Climb Pack - 20 L 1220 cu in

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Flinstone Rock 
Mr. Potato Head (tower) 
Sandy's Toe (Tower) 

Gold Bar Canyon 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: paul bucher on Mar 16, 2013

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parking area with trail head and sandy's toe in ba...

Description 

A much more secluded canyon than others in the area. more rugged, requiring some 3rd class moves on the approach. peaceful and beautiful without the crowds. trail into canyon starts at the large flat top boulder. hike up the ball bearing slope behind the boulder and gain the train tracks. continue right and up to a step and then some 3rd class moves right or left around a block. move left (up canyon) on slabs and a faint trail to a tunnel thru under another block. up and then left again (up canyon) on slabs and trail to the first major wash. follow this down into the main wash. you should now be above a huge waterfall on the clean slabs of the main wash. the approaches to the climbs start here. Sandy's toe covers the left side of the canyon from the mouth of the canyon, downstream. Potato head covers left side from the mouth, up canyon.
NOTE: to escape all routes on the down river side of the canyon; there is a rap station in the first wash down river from Gold Bar Canyon. visible right of a black streak (seasonal waterfall) from the road side. The chains are just over the edge and not really visible from the top. step down into the wash onto a good ledge and look up stream. easy to see from there. single 70 to the tracks.


Getting There 

13.3 miles from denny's in moab. 191 north, left on potash road, go 10.5 miles down potash to good parking near a large flat top boulder on the right. it's the next canyon down river from culvert canyon (just past corona arch parking area). if you pass day or long canyon (jug handle arch), you went to far.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gold Bar Canyon:
Spindrift Route   5.8 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Mr. Potato Head (tower)
Little Nubbin Route   5.10- A0     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 90 feet   Sandy's Toe (Tower)
Beardsley's Cabbage   5.11a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 125 feet, Grade II   Sandy's Toe (Tower)
Double Bow Chimney   5.11 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 125 feet, Grade III   Sandy's Toe (Tower)
Wilma    5.11     Trad, 55 feet   Flinstone Rock
Browse More Classics in Gold Bar Canyon

Featured Route For Gold Bar Canyon
Double Bow Chimney

Double Bow Chimney 5.11 PG13  UT : Moab Area : ... : Sandy's Toe (Tower)
Every bit as stunning as it is eye catching from the road. Classic old school desert climbing in an amazing chimney with stellar views. space tower on steroids. this thing is WILD! chimney up the right side of the "tower" protecting the OW in back. drop in for some steep and varied climbing, then out and around the center block to a two bolt belay. more chimney/OW work protected by bolts leads up into an open chimney under a big roof. climb out right to the summit. two bomber bolt anchor. singl...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Gold Bar Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
into the rap wash from sandy's toe

into the rap wash from sandy's toe

rap station

rap station

rap from the deck

rap from the deck

tred quietly

tred quietly

to the rap from Potato Head

to the rap from Potato Head

Double Bow

Double Bow

drake up in it

drake up in it

Bow & Toe from the road. B on the left, T on the right

Bow & Toe from the road. B on the left, T on the r...

Beardsley crack

Beardsley crack