Going to Zion for Spring Break 2015... lookng for moderate climbs in the park!

It looks as though there is a lot of very advanced climbing in Zion NP! This summer will be my first season of trad, and I would hope to be leading 5.9 comfortably by the end of the summer. Looking forward to next year, my family is planning on taking a vacation to Zion! I'm looking for moderate routes (and partners) in the national park. Thanks guys!

I haven't climbed a lot in the Zion area but a moderate that I have done and enjoyed was Led by Sheep It's one of those sandstone summits that you always looked at and wondered if it goes. Well Dave and Jeffe got there act together and put up this nice route. Typical slab climbing to an atypical summit, runouts as expected but not overly committing. Bring a nice lunch for the top and enjoy the view before rapping the route.

There are few moderates and the rock can be soft and sometimes tricky to protect to a new leader. That being said, there are a few that I think you would enjoy. Other than Led by Sheep (expect about 40' spacing between bolts)I would recommend weeping rock chimney (2 pitches P1 5.7, P2 5.8), Cherry Crack at cerberus (first pitch is a fun 5.9, 2nd pitch is a 10c burlfest i wouldn't recommend for you), Cave Route also at cerberus (old grade 5.7), and numerous routes at the confluence. If you are feeling good and confident at that grade and style, climb ashtar command (5.9+, crux is the thin last pitch which is adequately protected by drilled angles), or right toilet bowl crack (5.9+). If you want some safe 10s to work on your grade try squeeze play, tales of flails, or tourist crack. When I lived in Zion for a few months, I asked a prominent local what moderates he would suggest in the canyon. He laughed and said "what we call moderates is probably different than what you would call a moderate" and he left it at that. Hopefully I provided a little more assistance that that. Enjoy.

"The Headache" is one of the best .10's I've ever climbed if you feel up to it by the time you arrive. It's mostly 5.9 anyways, with pretty short cruxes and great pro and steep and juggy climbing. Get on it!

"Led by Sheep" is pretty fun as well, just think of it as an adventure and be prepared to encounter a good amount of sand and some decent runouts. With good rope management and route finding you can do it pretty easily car to car in 2-4 hours.