Godzilla 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Don Harder, Donn Heller |
| Submitted By: | Lizzy Trower on Jan 26, 2006 |
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Unknown climber doing the 10a variation to Godzill...
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Description Another Index classic. Godzilla technically has second and third pitches, but these are rarely climbed. Godzilla is the crack/corner system immediately right of City Park (5.13c), a fairly obvious landmark. Either start on the 10a bolt ladder of City Park and step right, or start over to the right and climb the face straight up to the crack system. Continue up the crack system and then traverse left along some ledges up to a bolted belay/rap station. You need 2 ropes to rap down from here.
Protection Standard trad rack to 3", bolted belay/rap station
Godzilla.
Photo by Blitzo.
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By Jesse James
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 15, 2006
| A really fun variation called "Bambi" steps left via a long reach and a mantle about 15 feet before the regular leftward traverse. This probably makes it 5.10-, and is a more direct line. Even better than the original godzilla, which is already ultra classic. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 2, 2006
rating: 5.9
| A great pitch! You can rap/lower is a single 70m rope. Nuts and two sets of cams from TCUs to #3. Long slings helpful. If you're not comfortable jamming, the flake section may seem harder than 5.9! |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jul 29, 2008
| Stellar line on impeccable rock. It is possible to rap this route with one 60m rope. I did it today. We used an intermediate anchor (the anchor for Batskins) about 60 feet off the deck and to the climbers left when facing Godzilla. Note: The anchor I am talking about, however, is NOT the anchor roughly 30 feet below and also to the left of the top of Godzilla. |
By blakeherrington
Dec 21, 2008
| You can DEFINITELY reach the ground in one rappel with a 60m rope. Just go straight to the ground and you'll be fine, its 30m straight down. 60m ropes aren't long enough to have the leader lower off the ground, so belay from the anchors. |
By Drewsky
Dec 28, 2008
| A mixed line of retrobolts and gear leaves the first pitch anchor on Godzilla and angles up and right to a belay above Natural Log Cabin/Deal with it Ranger. This is called The Cidiot (I believe; FA Tom Ramier, Tom Coe). That first ascent info may be incorrect. Much of the climbing is incidental to the actual second pitch of Godzilla , aka Leaping Lizards (.10a/b). This pitch is used to access Salad Fingers (.11b/c). Protection is well-spaced at times. |
By Rafe
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Just an excellent route. Combined with 2nd pitch City Park and Slow Children is so good. |
By Ethan Henderson
From: Silverdale, WA
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Awesome route!
Lots of great rests to place gear.
The last couple moves are really cool especially the step across.
I would recommend a single rack with double 2's. |
By Korrigan
Apr 2, 2013
| Super good pitch if you can get on it.
The only knock on it is what's also good about it. There are a bunch of huge rests on this. There's even a no hands rest just before the leftward traverse at the top.
Basically if you're placing gear from anything other than a comfy rest with fat holds then you are doing something wrong. |
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