God of Thunder, Pitch 2
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Dario Gambetta and Tony Yaniro, 1978 |
Page Views: | 3,466 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Ben J. on Apr 24, 2013 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Climb one of the 3 God of Thunder first pitch variations. Clip the chains and continue into the route's second half.
Fun, mostly hand-sized climbing takes you to a jug immediately below the first roof. Fairly straightforward movement and deep jams can be used to surmount this roof. About 10 feet of moderate offwidth brings you to a pair of old bolts and the second roof, which to me seemed considerably more difficult and puzzling than the first. A rail buried deep within the roof crack may help a little or a lot.
Fun, mostly hand-sized climbing takes you to a jug immediately below the first roof. Fairly straightforward movement and deep jams can be used to surmount this roof. About 10 feet of moderate offwidth brings you to a pair of old bolts and the second roof, which to me seemed considerably more difficult and puzzling than the first. A rail buried deep within the roof crack may help a little or a lot.
Location
Once you've arrived at the base of Dear John, look up. You can't miss these wide roof cracks.
We were able to easily reach the ground and lower off with a 70. Pretty sure that a 60 would also be sufficient.
We were able to easily reach the ground and lower off with a 70. Pretty sure that a 60 would also be sufficient.
Protection
We had two new #4 camalots and an old #5. The 4's worked well for the first roof and the OW leading to the second roof. The old 5 was a bit overcammed and difficult to retrieve from the second roof, but a new 4 was close to tipped out... an old #4 or new #5 would probably be best to protect the second roof. Chain anchors are located just above the second roof.
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