Gobs of Blobs  5.7 R

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Billy Westbay and Michael Covington Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Mar 13, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

1st pitch - name for route is obvious? Photo cred...

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Cool rock. The name is perfect. This starts on the right side/SE face of Batman Rock. Hike up the trail to Batman Rock, traverse right along its base. 25-40 minute walk.

The start is left of a shrub juniper on the big ledge across the bottom of the SE face. It is just right of the big, triangular flake in the center of the photo with the acute rightward & up pointing triangular shadow. Just right of the start is a ledge with at least 4 trees. When you find yourself near the start, there is a series of holds on the right side of the wall here that looks 5.7ish. The rest looks harder. The angle of the wall diminishes markedly after 20-25 feet. The start is shared with Hand Over Hand & Clowntime is Over.]

Pitch 1: Go up a steeper face perhaps 20 feet (easy 5.7) on good knobs, a #3 Friend is useful. You can sling a horn (weight useful). When you reach the slab, traverse left. Find wonderful knobs here that make this traverse easy but memorable. Think about your second and protect this when you can! There are couple places to belay in this sea of knobs.

Pitch 2: continue this traverse to a corner and belay (slightly awkward). #3, #3 1/2 Friend, hexes are useful for the belay. Pitch 3 (shared with Station to Station): jam up a bulge (crux) in the corner and move right to easier terrain.

In old guides this is rated 5.7. Due to the risk for the second and falling leaders on the traverse, I gave is an S or R, although traditionally, it has not carried such a warning.

A great moderate link-up with Batman and Robin and/or Osiris for bonus mileage.

Bird nesting closure may affect accessibility. Check first.

Protection 

Light rack to #3 1/2 Friend, hexes.

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BETA PHOTO	BETA PHOTO: Topo with line in red. Link to Origina...	BETA PHOTO: A little peek at the Blobs.