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Beheaded Burro 
Gobies for Gumbies 
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Gobies for Gumbies 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,741
Submitted By: Will S on Nov 25, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Richard Harrison on Gobies for Gumbies, 5.10+.


This is a beautiful splitter crack angling right and passing through a small bulge near the top on a clean dark red wall. The tech crux may be the first ten feet starting in a bulging straight up crack that begins fist and wider for a few feet with sandy face holds on either side. At the obvious bulge about 3/4 height, the crack thins from hands down to rings and stacks for a move or two and then fingerlocks just above. At that point you can stem to the wall behind you and use it as the crack pinches off and facey climbing or stemming takes you to the top. There is some mystery fixed tat just before the topout that despite it's appearance, you may be happy to clip.

While the texture isn't bad on this, there is a nasty bit of fin/offset on the bottom on the crack through the middle section that chews on your wrist. Some guides give this 10d or 10+ which may be a bit of a sandbag.


Just right of Group Therapy is a huge chimney system. On the left wall of the system is an obvious right slanting hand crack high on the wall. Start via a bulging straight up crack to gain the upper crack. Rap with two ropes via a single bolt + slung tunnel anchor.


Mostly tight hands to hands, thinning down to fingerlocks at the end. Set of wires and tcus, and cams to 3" with triples in #1,#2 camalot sizes and optional doubles in the #.5,#.75.

Photos of Gobies for Gumbies Slideshow Add Photo
Long and steep, but with good feet the entire way
Long and steep, but with good feet the entire way
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