Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Paul Van Betten, Nick Nordblom, and Randal Grandstaff, 1985
Page Views: 6,307 total · 34/month
Shared By: Will S on Nov 25, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a beautiful splitter crack angling right and passing through a small bulge near the top on a clean dark red wall. The tech crux may be the first ten feet starting in a bulging straight up crack that begins fist and wider for a few feet with sandy face holds on either side. At the obvious bulge about 3/4 height, the crack thins from hands down to rings and stacks for a move or two and then fingerlocks just above. At that point you can stem to the wall behind you and use it as the crack pinches off and facey climbing or stemming takes you to the top. There is some mystery fixed tat just before the topout that despite it's appearance, you may be happy to clip.

While the texture isn't bad on this, there is a nasty bit of fin/offset on the bottom on the crack through the middle section that chews on your wrist. Some guides give this 10d or 10+ which may be a bit of a sandbag.

Location Suggest change

Just right of Group Therapy is a huge chimney system. On the left wall of the system is an obvious right slanting hand crack high on the wall. Start via a bulging straight up crack to gain the upper crack. Rap with two ropes via a single bolt + slung tunnel anchor.

Protection Suggest change

Mostly tight hands to hands, thinning down to fingerlocks at the end. Set of wires and tcus, and cams to 3" with triples in #1,#2 camalot sizes and optional doubles in the #.5,#.75.

Photos

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