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Turkey Rock
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Gobbler's Grunt 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Skip Hamilton & Steve Cheyney, early 1970s (from CGNA)?
Page Views: 11,154
Submitted By: Michael Walker on Oct 13, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (109)
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Alternate start (easier) to Gobblers Grunt "Dash a...

Description 

A varied climb of superb quality found on Turkey Rock's South Face. A fine introduction to South Platte offerings. From the Pass between Turkey Rocks and Turkey Perch, drop down and to the right, following the base of Turkey Rocks. The route starts on the West side of the South Face.

P1: The traditional start is in a dark chimney on the West side (5.7) just past the lowest point of the face, but this chimney is better used to identify a hand crack variation just to the right (very recommended). Begin with a small crack that angles right, leading to a bomber hand crack (5.8) charging straight up to a roof. The crack widens before reaching the roof (your big piece in the small pod) and get ready for the crux. Reach up to a jam above the small pod (5.9) and work via hand traverse left and escape from under the roof to another hand crack. The crack eases back and cruise to a good ledge.

P2: The first pitch was a satisfying hand crack, the second a delicate finger crack. From the ledge follow the cracks straight up the steep, open face above (5.9). The beginning of this pitch is fine climbing; tricky stems and thoughful, exposed progress leads back and forth up the dual cracks. Work around a small roof on the left, 5.6s on the face or tricky 5.8 along the crack. Belay up on the left on an exposed, delightful, small shelf.

P3: Climb the crack above the belay, following easier climbing along a left facing dihedral (5.7). Finish smartly with a small sampling of easy slab. Follow the line of least resistance to the right into a huge slot that leads to the summit.

Walk off to the East toward the pass between Turkey Rocks and Turkey Perch.


Protection 

SR to a #4



Photos of Gobbler's Grunt Slideshow Add Photo
The start of pitch two. Beautiful finger/hand cracks!
The start of pitch two. Beautiful finger/hand crac...
Take a number.
Take a number.
Cindy at the comfortable second belay.
Cindy at the comfortable second belay.
The beautiful cracks on pitch 2.
The beautiful cracks on pitch 2.
Phil P following the wonderfully exposed P2.
Phil P following the wonderfully exposed P2.
High up on the highly recomended, beutiful handcrack variation to pitch one.  This starts just to the right of the chimney of the original start.  This is an excellent crack and is much more consistent with the quality and diffuculty of the rest of the climb than the original 1st pitch.
High up on the highly recomended, beutiful handcra...
The chimney of Pitch 1.  The parallel hand cracks that start out pitch 2 are visible in the center (left to right) at the top of the picture, just above the chimney.
The chimney of Pitch 1. The parallel hand cracks ...
The start of the first pitch handcrack variation.
The start of the first pitch handcrack variation.
Unknown climbers on 3rd pitch.
Unknown climbers on 3rd pitch.
The start of pitch 3.
The start of pitch 3.
Belay 3rd pitch.
Belay 3rd pitch.
Starting up P1 of Gobbler's Grunt. Original 5.7 chimney start is on the left, 5.9 hand crack variation is on the right.
Starting up P1 of Gobbler's Grunt. Original 5.7 ch...
Comments on Gobbler's Grunt Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 27, 2014
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Oct 22, 2001

This climb is a definit must. Pitch two was the best! There are several possiblities for pitch two. Down and left is a striking finger crack, this is the recomended start. The finger crack is superb 5.9 that proptects easily. About 40-50 ft up one can cross into a crack to the right with some hands. Another 20ft or some bring you to a fork under a flake/roof. I whent right up a wide crack, which I estimate as 5.8, that ends up in a nice caviish ledge. If you go right I hear you end up an a slaby 5.7s, but I really would_ent know.

By Rich Farnham
Apr 22, 2003

This is a classic for sure! I can't remember how many times I've done it. If you want to add some more great climbing, there is a way to TR the superb 5.9X Messner's Delight while on this route. At the top of the second pitch, you can easily traverse left to Messner's anchors (two old bolts, backed up with a good cam(s), if I recall correctly -- it's been a while). From there, rap or lower (60m rope mandatory, just barely reaches) to the huge ledge at the top of Gobbler's 1st pitch. TR it and then move your belay back to Gobbler's and finish with that climb's third pitch. Messner's is a thin crack that peters out, leaving you to wander up the face on knobs and edges. You can see it in the picture below that shows a variation start and the upper part of Gobbler's Grunt

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Oct 14, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It is possible to downclimb left off the top of the first pitch if that is all you want to do. About 20 feet, maybe 5.7. It would be a pity to miss P2 though!

By Anonymous Coward
May 16, 2004

After the first pitch, walk left and you'll see slings and rap rings for your descending pleasure

By TBD
Jul 19, 2004

Possibly as good as it gets for the grade. You can combine the 2nd and 3rd pitches, but a 60M will leave you just short of the top. A 70 would get you there fine. Fabulous varied climbing.

By Danny
May 23, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is really one of the best multi-pitch climbs I have done anywhere. The variation on the first pitch is awesome-five stars. The second pitch is also of the highest quality . The belay ledge after pitch two is really nice and shady (b/c it is in a sort of cave). Anyway on to why I am posting a comment. I did not consult this site before going out and doing this climb. Instead I relied on the guide book-this was a mistake. In the guide book it shows a walk off to the west. I attempted this, and found out (unless I was totally off route) there is no walk-off. Instead I ended up leaving some cord and a locking biner to rappel down to another previously left rappel station. So as of 5/23/05 there are two solid rap stations going off to the west, total rap length is 120 meters, this will put you on the ground. Enjoy!!

By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Golden, CO
May 23, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I thought this was an awesome route. Very sustained the whole way, with a little bit of offwidth thrown in. If you're confused about where the belay ledge is between the 2nd and 3rd pitches, just ask Guadalupe, he's the brown and white pigeon that kept me company, don't worry he doesn't bite. May I also add that as a second, it was nerve-racking to watch my leader suspended in mid-air outside of the cave (2nd belay ledge).

By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Jul 7, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As stated above, the hand crack variation to P1 is of the highest quality and adds to the pleasure of the route as a whole. I didn't get on this route until recently because of the 5.7s finish on P3 that (I think) Stewart Green describes in his book (though it may have been Hubbel's). Not so! In fact, looking up at the slab I expected to run it out to the overlap, but encountered gear placements every 5 to 10 feet making it very safe. Also, with a couple of RPs, the 5.6s face on the second pitch felt well protected.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 20, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thousands upon thousands of winged black ants were on the summit today, swarming as I tried to find an insect free crack to build an anchor. I've never seen so many flying ants in one place. Nasty.

By Alison Conrad
Oct 21, 2008

On P2 I took the variation at the top that goes right thru a widish section. It was about 5.8 and protected nicely with 2 #3s. I placed a #3 at the end of the hand crack, heel toed and chicken winged a couple of moves, and place another #3 higher up. Fun little variation.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2009

This route is brilliant with the handcrack variation to the first pitch - thanks to everyone here for recommending it. Every pitch on this climb is super fun. The gear is excellent as well.

A comment on this first pitch: to me, the roof did not feel like the crux; I was surprised that it felt relatively easy. I thought that the wide parts of the crack down low (before the roof) and above the roof felt harder. I have small hands, and sections of these cracks were wider than fist for me.

On the second pitch, we went with the 5.6s face section. If you want to go this way, you should know that you can step high in the crack and place a great nut, then step back down to traverse out onto the face. The initial traverse onto the face is by far the hardest part: the climbing gets easier and easier as you go up on the face. So if you use a high piece, you'll be well protected for the actual 5.6 move and then only have to run it out on a 5.4 (or so) section. If you have long slings, you can even protect this section by girth hitching the chickenheads.

As Matt Chan said, the so-called 7R last pitch is actually quite well protected.

Overall, a great route!

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
May 12, 2013

Should have read the route description better. One the second pitch, I finished in a cave. Then from there went to the top in a chimney (through the cave). All was still great climbing and nothing harder than 5.9 but didn't realize I was supposed to stay left on the face on P2. Handcrack variation to the first pitch was the best pitch of the climb.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Classic. No really hard move but lots of it: UK pitch grades 5a, 5a, 4c. Worth good E1, I thought, as it's like doing 5 Hen Cloud HVSs stacked on top of each other. If you go straight up at the flake roof on P2, instead of stepping left, you get involved with a 5.8+ offwidth (and then move across left to the usual sloping ledge stance) which adds to the fun.

By Jean Spencer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 27, 2014

@claramie, I also went through the cave for P3. Fun, exposed climbing through a stemming chimney.