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Turkey Tail
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For Turkeys Only 
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Whimsical Dreams 
Wild Turkey 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) 

Gobble This 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Glen Schuler & Kevin Mclaughlin, '92
Page Views: 832
Submitted By: Monty on Dec 15, 2009
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Gobble This arete.

Description 

This is the bolted arete variation to Wudamudafuka. Climbing this is not climbing Wudamudafuka

Start on on the finger crack for Wudamudafuka until it ends on a sloping ramp. Delicately reach out left around the arete and clip your first bolt. Balancy, thin face climbing leads you past 3 more bolts to a thin, perplexing crux getting to a hand jam under a chockstone on Wudamudafuka. Cruise up good jams to 2 coldshuts.


Location 

Gobble This is located in the middle of Turkey Tail, right of Whimsical and left of Drumstick.
Starts on Wudamudafuka.


Protection 

Light rack, a couple mid-large stoppers, 1 of each cams #0.3, #0.4, #0.75, #2, #3, #4, 8-9 draws.



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By slim
Administrator
Dec 16, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I think this one is harder than I Turkey/Resurrection. Or maybe I Turkey is easier. Same thing either way.

By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Dec 16, 2009

Hey Monty, Kevin McLaughlin and I put this variation up back around 1992 I think.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Dec 16, 2009

I figured it was you guys. Great line, I really love the arete moves. What did you guys originally rate the route? I felt that it was on par with I Turkey, harder crux, but not as sustained.

By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Dec 17, 2009

When we did it originally, I thought that the arete moves were a little easier than the initial finger crack section of Wud. I think Wud was rated .11+ so that's what we went with. We did the route again about a year ago and the upper part of the arete seemed harder than I remembered. I fully attribute that to being fat & old - .11+ seems pretty accurate.

By slim
Administrator
Dec 17, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

You definitely have to switch gears in a hurry, between that brutal slippery layback at the bottom, and the tweaky arete action up high. Makes for a really good route.