||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400', Grade II
|Consensus: ||WI3- M3 [details]|
|FA: ||Taylor B. & Sarah O.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,302|
|Submitted By: ||Taylor-B. on Apr 1, 2010|
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Start of the 2nd pitch. Pound a Pin in here.
|Please respect the mining claims in this area.|
Goat Piss is located climber's left of the Golden Goat
Buttress in the gully. A good melt freeze cycle with a cold, overcast day is when this route comes in and not for long. Be mindful of avy conditions and goats.
P1. WI3 M3 Climb up mixed terrain surmounting chockstones that are the crux and belay on the big, chossy ledge.
P2. WI3 M3, 60m. Protect the belay and climb up snice and ice with a few mixed moves. Belay up in rock outcroppings on climber's left where you can then scramble off to the west.
Take county RD 850 to the lower Blue Lake and park at the fork in the road. The left fork goes to a private cabin (do not enter or block road) and the right fork goes to the upper Blue Lake dam. The Golden Goat Buttress is located directly above the fork in the road at about 12,000 feet. It's about a 10 minute approach from the road. To descend traverse west and pick a gully to go down.
A small alpine rack; 2 stubby screws, nuts, cams up to #2 BD, and knife blades and Lost Arrows are key.
BETA PHOTO: Golden Goat Buttress.