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Goat Rock is tucked a fair way back from the main Castle Park area, but it's worth the beautiful hike in. It's a pretty sweet mix of slabs and overhung, cave-like climbs, with lots of pockets all around. The rock is about 80 feet high, so from the top you get an even more breathtaking view of the valley. All the climbs have top-rope bolts except "Left Side of Great Roof" which has 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The climbs range from 5.4 to 5.12a, with something for everyone. This rock is great if you have people with varying skill levels in your group. The top rope bolts are easily accessed, but you should definitely bring long slings to set up your top rope if you want your rope to last on this sandstone. If you're planning on staying 'till sundown don't forget to bring a headlamp or flashlight...otherwise the hike out gets very tricky.Classics on Goat Rock include Great Roof (5.10b) and the Left Side (5.12a) for more advanced climbers, and Swiss Cheese (5.4-5.7) for less experienced climbers.
From the main Castle Rock parking lot, take the Saratoga Gap Trail west toward Castle Rock Falls. You will cross Kings Creek, then at the fork in the trail, turn right onto Ridge Trail. If you reach the observation platform for Castle Rock Falls you have gone past the fork. Passing by Last Temptation Cliff and Billy Goat rock on your right, you will come to Goat Rock on the left side. It's about a 1.3 to 1.5 mile hike in, with a decent amount of uphill walking, on a fairly small but well-traveled trail.
6 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Goat Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Goat Rock:
Triple Overhang 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR, 1 pitch, 50'
The Great Roof 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Goat Rock
Center Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Goat Rock
The Center Route starts just to the right of the tree under the roof, where the pitch of the slab becomes a bit steeper. There are tons of good pockets on this climb, making it pretty uncomplicated. Be smooth and careful when lowering your partner down, as the rock isn't completely vertical in all spots - there are some protrusions that hurt a LOT to smack into if your belayer abruptly stops (unfortunately known from personal experience). This is a fun climb for a warm up or new climbers....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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