Goat Rock is tucked a fair way back from the main Castle Park area, but it's worth the beautiful hike in. It's a pretty sweet mix of slabs and overhung, cave-like climbs, with lots of pockets all around. The rock is about 80 feet high, so from the top you get an even more breathtaking view of the valley. All the climbs have top-rope bolts except "Left Side of Great Roof" which has 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The climbs range from 5.4 to 5.12a, with something for everyone. This rock is great if you have people with varying skill levels in your group. The top rope bolts are easily accessed, but you should definitely bring long slings to set up your top rope if you want your rope to last on this sandstone. If you're planning on staying 'till sundown don't forget to bring a headlamp or flashlight...otherwise the hike out gets very tricky.Classics on Goat Rock include Great Roof (5.10b) and the Left Side (5.12a) for more advanced climbers, and Swiss Cheese (5.4-5.7) for less experienced climbers.
From the main Castle Rock parking lot, take the Saratoga Gap Trail west toward Castle Rock Falls. You will cross Kings Creek, then at the fork in the trail, turn right onto Ridge Trail. If you reach the observation platform for Castle Rock Falls you have gone past the fork. Passing by Last Temptation Cliff and Billy Goat rock on your right, you will come to Goat Rock on the left side. It's about a 1.3 to 1.5 mile hike in, with a decent amount of uphill walking, on a fairly small but well-traveled trail.
6 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Goat Rock:
Swiss Cheese 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Corner Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c X Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Triple Overhang 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a TR, 1 pitch, 50'
The Great Roof 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Goat Rock
Swiss Cheese 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Goat Rock
A fairly indistinct route, which partially explains the range of ratings from 5.4-5.7. The entire lower 30 feet of the route is deeply incut, vertical to slightly-overhanging sandstone. The route then reaches a "third class ledge" (ref: Morris's guidebook). Leaders will go left, up the "fourth class gully", tying off handles as in the lower section. On toprope, the recommended, and more challenging line, ascends an obvious arete to the right, directly to the enormous knob which serves as the...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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