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 ADVANCED
Goat Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Route TR 
Corner Route T 
Goat Rock Traverse 
Great Roof, The TR 
Swiss Cheese T,TR 
Triple Overhang TR 

Goat Rock  


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Location: 37.2282, -122.1079 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,554
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Melissa Moore on Jun 20, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Goat Rock as viewed from the approach. You can se...

Description 

Goat Rock is tucked a fair way back from the main Castle Park area, but it's worth the beautiful hike in. It's a pretty sweet mix of slabs and overhung, cave-like climbs, with lots of pockets all around. The rock is about 80 feet high, so from the top you get an even more breathtaking view of the valley. All the climbs have top-rope bolts except "Left Side of Great Roof" which has 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The climbs range from 5.4 to 5.12a, with something for everyone. This rock is great if you have people with varying skill levels in your group. The top rope bolts are easily accessed, but you should definitely bring long slings to set up your top rope if you want your rope to last on this sandstone. If you're planning on staying 'till sundown don't forget to bring a headlamp or flashlight...otherwise the hike out gets very tricky.Classics on Goat Rock include Great Roof (5.10b) and the Left Side (5.12a) for more advanced climbers, and Swiss Cheese (5.4-5.7) for less experienced climbers.

Getting There 

From the main Castle Rock parking lot, take the Saratoga Gap Trail west toward Castle Rock Falls. You will cross Kings Creek, then at the fork in the trail, turn right onto Ridge Trail. If you reach the observation platform for Castle Rock Falls you have gone past the fork. Passing by Last Temptation Cliff and Billy Goat rock on your right, you will come to Goat Rock on the left side. It's about a 1.3 to 1.5 mile hike in, with a decent amount of uphill walking, on a fairly small but well-traveled trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.4 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Goat Rock:
Triple Overhang   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Great Roof   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Goat Rock

Featured Route For Goat Rock
Brad starting the crux section right off the ground.

Triple Overhang 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Goat Rock
Starts just left of the Great Roof's start and leads up and left to the anchors high above.Like its name suggests, three roofs. Fortunately, none of them are large or severe. Pumpy and fun....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Goat Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 25, 2002
I'd say the actual rock is closer to 110' than 80', though the climbing only reaches up to about 80'.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2002
This rock used to be popular with army rappeller types. Once a guy in a camouflage outfit scared the shit out of me as he jumped face first off the big overhang, I thought he was committing suicide. But he was doing one of those face first raps, the first 10' in free fall.
By T. Maino
Jul 3, 2002
Led this in the 80's. There was an old bolt before and after the lip's jug. They looked ancient then. Are they still there?
By Raphael Varieras
From: San Francisco, CA
Feb 23, 2012
Coordinates for goat rock are: 37.228216, -122.107891
By Manny Segovia
From: Sacramento, California
Apr 7, 2014
Just went out there yesterday, seems legit. bring some long slings to tr tho (20 ft) or a static. you can anchor to a huge bulge for the 3 problems on the right and for the 5.5 and 5.6 i saw someone slinging the bulge and clipped in to one anchor set far back. for the 5.9 and 10 routes right next to each other bring some imagination and ingenuity to set the tr. the rest of the problems to the left are protected with good anchors. The Bay Area Rock book shows that all the climbs are anchored but those bolts have been removed. there's one bold still there but its suuuper rusty. I'm not crazy enough for that haha. It seems super cruiser tho. have fun. the place was packed when we were there so no climbing for us this time :(