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Goat Rock Beach

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Back Rock 
Sunset Boulders 

Goat Rock Beach Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.4467, -123.1264 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 47,057
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Feb 10, 2003
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Kevin Jorgeson at Sunset Rocks, Sonoma Coast


Sitting above and on the ocean, Goat Rock is a great place for boudlering and top roping. There are a few trad routes, but it's not a place you should head if your entire day is planned around being a trad monkey.

This is a gorgeous place, and all bay area climbers should make their way out to Goat Rock at least once. The routes are quite varied in difficulty, from 5.2 to V10, as are the styles of climbing.

The rock, as most other bay area locations is a random assortment of beautiful rock, blues, reds, greens, whites and black. There will more information on the geology of the area as time allows.

Climbing is free, as are the waves.

The bouldering routes are all walk offs, and most of the climbing routes you will need to lower off.

The only downside of the existing routes in some poeple's minds could be that you've got to climb an exposed 5.2 30' to get to the top of the rock!

Getting There 

From the South:

To access Goat Rock, take the 101 to Petaluma, where you should take the East Washington street exit. Head over the freeway and through town. This will turn into Bodega Avenue after a little while. Continue on Bodega Avenue for 26 miles to the coast, where it will become highway 1. Go north through the town of Bodega Bay along the coast. After approximately 9 miles, you will see the sign and eventual left turn to Goat Rock Beach.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.0 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Goat Rock Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Goat Rock Beach:
Pelican Arete   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders
Sunset Face Left   V0- 4-     TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders
Mid-Term   V0 4     Boulder, 10'   Sunset Boulders
Heel Hooker Traverse   V1 5     Boulder   Sunset Boulders
Sunset Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder   Sunset Boulders
Skullcracker   V2 5+ R     Boulder, 10'   Sunset Boulders
Rock Scar   V3+ 6A+     Boulder   Sunset Boulders
The Specialist   V4 6B     Boulder   Sunset Boulders
Sunset Arete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders
Sunset Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders
Sunset Face Right   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders
Osprey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Sunset Boulders
Killer Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 30'   Sunset Boulders
Final Exam   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 20'   Sunset Boulders
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Goat Rock Beach

Featured Route For Goat Rock Beach
Rock Climbing Photo: Work that crack!

Mid-Term V0 4  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Sunset Boulders
Starts near the right hand side follows the crack up. Corresponds with number 4 on the picture. Once you have this crack nailed move on to "Final Exam"....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Goat Rock Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a pretty Sweet 5.9
This is a pretty Sweet 5.9

Comments on Goat Rock Beach Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 4, 2004
Don't leave climbing gear in the car (or at least in sight). Had a friend lose several thousand dollars of gear from car break-in while they were out bouldering for a couple of hours in mid day.
By seajhay
Jul 18, 2007
just came from the area. was there the last two days and was mostly fogged in... beautiful when the sun did poke through.. will be back in sunnier days later in the summer/early fall
By Floyd Hayes
Oct 28, 2008
I think it's Goat Rock State Beach, not Goat Rock State Park.
By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Mar 12, 2010
Just to clarify: "Goat Rock Beach" lies within "Sonoma Coast State Park," (formerly known as Sonoma Coast State Beach) The park stretches from Bodega Head to Meyers Grade and includes Pomo Canyon and the Willow Creek Watershed (excellent mountain biking).

Climbers have been under a microscope here from time to time and future access could be threatened if certain paleontological theories about mammoth rubbings are substantiated. Please be an ambassador for the climbing community by respecting other visitor's experiences at the rocks.

If the Admins were feeling shnazzy they would reformulate this area as Sonoma Coast State Park, with the various individual crags under its heading. Sunset Boulders, Twin Coves, Super Slab and Dry Creek Sea Crag, along with Pomo Canyon and Marshall Gulch, are all within this one park.
By beachplus4
From: So San Francisco
Sep 12, 2010
This place was great this weekend. Cool and nice locals, surfers to watch. I loved it, can't wait to go back!
By Casey B
From: Oakland, California
Sep 4, 2013
You can save a few minutes of driving from the listed directions by taking the Railroad Ave exit from the 101 North in Petaluma. Turn left onto Railroad ave, then right on Stony Point Road. Continue on Stony Point for about 2 miles and then turn left onto Roblar Road. Drive on Roblar Road for about 6.5 miles and then turn right at the intersection with Valley Ford road. From there you are on the same route as the posted directions.

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