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|Type: ||Trad, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.8- [details]|
|FA: ||? Bolted by J & B Smoot 2006|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||bsmoot on Sep 25, 2007|
Climbs far right line
P1- Climb a short face past a bolt. Diagonal up & right past cracks & flakes to a natural pro. belay at some bushes.
P2- Diagonal again up the face past a bolt. Traverse right to a belay in bushes at a bolt at the far right edge of the big roof above.
P3- climb up to a cool finger crack which is followed back left and up to belay bolts.(5.7 or 5.8)
P4- Ascend the smooth face past bolts to a fixed belay just past a roof.
P5- Scramble past the midway ledge/bushes to a belay on the beautiful low angle slab.
P6- Climb past 2 bolts to a fixed belay at a small roof.
P7- Climb the moderate slab to a belay under the roof at 3 bolts. Rap Super Crack with 2 ropes.
Right side of Super Slab
Small rack of small & medium cans
|By James Garrett|
Oct 4, 2007
FYI,Both Goat routes end at the 3 bolt belay. One wonders at first why they elected to install 3 bolts here, but Brian informed me it was wet that day and they were concerned wuth longevity and seeking a place under an overhang where the gear would stay fairly dry.
Also, one notices a huge length of chain (like 20feet!) directly about 50 feet across to the left of this anchor. I couldn't figure out what this was, and first thought it was for the ice climbing in the winter. I was incorrect, and after talking with Brian, it was installed to secure a huge boulder up there! It would be a killer, for sure, so thanks to Jonathan and Brian for doing this. Much appreciation! Please do not think, as I first did, that it was alot of chain waiting to be kipped....it does serve a purpose!
Sep 8, 2011
There's more fixed gear than Bryan mentions. We found:
P1: 2 bolts, 1 pin
P2: ditto, rap anchor(2bolts) @ end
P3: bolt, 2 pins in crack (quite vegetated--bummer)
P4: 4 bolts
P5: 1 pin marking where you climb thru the trees
P6: 2 bolts
P7: 3 bolts
Used sm/med nuts, 00 to #3 camalot, long runners, and draws.
Be prepared for some stimulating bolt spacing on P7 especially, as the rock is really polished. Also, there was a water/slippery moss crossing before the belay on P2--good times.