Goat Heaven 5.8-
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| Type: | Trad, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | ? Bolted by J & B Smoot 2006 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | bsmoot on Sep 25, 2007 |
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Climbs far right line
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Description P1- Climb a short face past a bolt. Diagonal up & right past cracks & flakes to a natural pro. belay at some bushes. P2- Diagonal again up the face past a bolt. Traverse right to a belay in bushes at a bolt at the far right edge of the big roof above. P3- climb up to a cool finger crack which is followed back left and up to belay bolts.(5.7 or 5.8) P4- Ascend the smooth face past bolts to a fixed belay just past a roof. P5- Scramble past the midway ledge/bushes to a belay on the beautiful low angle slab. P6- Climb past 2 bolts to a fixed belay at a small roof. P7- Climb the moderate slab to a belay under the roof at 3 bolts. Rap Super Crack with 2 ropes.
Location Right side of Super Slab
Protection Small rack of small & medium cans
By James Garrett Oct 4, 2007
| FYI,Both Goat routes end at the 3 bolt belay. One wonders at first why they elected to install 3 bolts here, but Brian informed me it was wet that day and they were concerned wuth longevity and seeking a place under an overhang where the gear would stay fairly dry. Also, one notices a huge length of chain (like 20feet!) directly about 50 feet across to the left of this anchor. I couldn't figure out what this was, and first thought it was for the ice climbing in the winter. I was incorrect, and after talking with Brian, it was installed to secure a huge boulder up there! It would be a killer, for sure, so thanks to Jonathan and Brian for doing this. Much appreciation! Please do not think, as I first did, that it was alot of chain waiting to be kipped....it does serve a purpose! |
By zoso Sep 8, 2011
| There's more fixed gear than Bryan mentions. We found: P1: 2 bolts, 1 pin P2: ditto, rap anchor(2bolts) @ end P3: bolt, 2 pins in crack (quite vegetated--bummer) P4: 4 bolts P5: 1 pin marking where you climb thru the trees P6: 2 bolts P7: 3 bolts Used sm/med nuts, 00 to #3 camalot, long runners, and draws. Be prepared for some stimulating bolt spacing on P7 especially, as the rock is really polished. Also, there was a water/slippery moss crossing before the belay on P2--good times. Thanks Smoots. |
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