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This is a fun route with a few really good pitches and a couple of tolerable ones. It gets the sun all day, so is a good option if it is too cold to climb elsewhere.
1. Climb into the wide crack from the right, and then climb up it until behind a little pinnacle. Continue straight up the wall for another 40 feet or so and belay on a small ledge. 5.9, 140ft.
2. From the small ledge, traverse left for about 10 feet and climb up a nice, weathered series of cracks until a grassy terrace is reached. 5.8, 90ft.
3. From the belay, head up and across the gully splitting the two towers and belay on a ledge below the obvious left-facing corner, about 30 feet from the edge of the wall. 5.8, 150ft
4. Climb the corner. It is surprisingly steep and continuous. Excellent climbing. At the top of the corner, step left and climb to the next ledge. 5.11-, 120ft.
5. Step slightly right and climb a short crack system 8 feet from the arete. This finishes on the ridge itself. Continue up the ridge past a little face climbing section. Belay where the ridge flattens out.
From this belay, a few hundred feet of easy scrambling will place you on the top.
This route is located on the ridge to the right of Noth'n But A Good Time. The landmark feature on the route is a left-facing dihedral several hundred feet up on the south face of the tower that is furthest east on that ridge. To approach the route, walk past Noth'n But A Good Time and look for a wide, slightly grassy crack that begins 30 feet up the wall directly below the second tower from the end of the ridge.
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
|By Ben Collett|
Aug 2, 2009
There is now a small cairn below the start of the route.