Goat F***er  5.11d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Matt Fettbrod, fall 2002 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Anonymous Coward on Jul 28, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route is on a short wall just above the cutoff...

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Description 

There is a route between the cut-off trail that goes left to the Tarot Wall and up on the Wall Of The Dead. It really isn't on the Tarot Wall. On the left, while hiking between the two, you can see 2 bolts going up past a vertical quartz dike to a ledge (obvious mantle) and a 2-bolt anchor. This climb is harder than it looks at first, but easier than it feels at first.

Two pumps and out is how the route goes. Fun moves though. With a better landing it could have been a classic boulder problem.

This route was installed and redpointed by Matt Fettbrod in the fall of 2002. The original name is Goat F***er - a reference to a local Italian baker's penchant for bestiality. The shortest route in Boulder Canyon?

Protection 

2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.