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Tarot Wall
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Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The 
Devil, The 
Earth Angel 
Fapanese Direct 
Fool, The 
Goat F***er 
Hanged Man, The 
Horse, The 
Lust 
Magician, The 
S.I.N. 
Tower, The 
Wheel of Fortune 

Goat F***er 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Fettbrod, fall 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,008
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 28, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: The route is on a short wall just above the cutoff...

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Description 

There is a route between the cut-off trail that goes left to the Tarot Wall and up on the Wall Of The Dead. It really isn't on the Tarot Wall. On the left, while hiking between the two, you can see 2 bolts going up past a vertical quartz dike to a ledge (obvious mantle) and a 2-bolt anchor. This climb is harder than it looks at first, but easier than it feels at first.

Two pumps and out is how the route goes. Fun moves though. With a better landing it could have been a classic boulder problem.

This route was installed and redpointed by Matt Fettbrod in the fall of 2002. The original name is Goat F***er - a reference to a local Italian baker's penchant for bestiality. The shortest route in Boulder Canyon?


Protection 

2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Jun 27, 2007

I pulled a brick-sized chunk up above the last (2nd) bolt. Doesn't look like there is much more that could come off though.

By Mingus
May 29, 2009

Yikes, we did this last night after Free Fall and it felt substantially harder. Maybe I was just powered down by then but this felt like V5 at the time.

By Joe Huggins
From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Jul 24, 2010

.11d? Hardest one in Boulder Canyon. There's a scar where a flake pulled off. I wonder if that made a difference; I couldn't pull the move, felt harder than .12b.