Go West Young Man
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Go West Young Man!
P1 – Same start as “Manifest Destiny”. Start at the toe of rock. Climb the slab via the center clean streak to a bolt at 25’. Climb slightly right to a short headwall, joining Illusion of Prosperity at a ledge. Climb flakes and thin cracks up and then left to a tricky step over at the left edge of the headwall onto a slab. Climb the easy slab to the right tree on the big ledge. Continue up the left facing corners above the tree moving slightly right to a two bolt anchor on a nice wide ledge. 5.7 140’
P2 – Follow the thin finger crack up and left across the entire face till the crack fades out at the top of a large low angle left facing groove under short twin finger cracks, belay here on gear. Bring many very small nuts and cams. 5.7 120'
P3 - Climb the right hand finger crack to small overlaps. Move right through overlaps and then straight up a slab to large pine tree belay. 5.6 60’
P4 –Step up right from the pine tree belay to two small trees on the same ledge. Squeeze behind the trees to step up and right onto the rock. Climb up 25’ to a short wall/overlap. Pull this on good edges below a short flake (good gear) on the top. Wander up the slab aiming for a prominent right facing thin flake in the overlaps. Layback a move up the thin flake then step left to good holds pulling two overlaps to the blocky white arête. Follow the arête to the woods. It is possible to finish from here by climbing out right and joining the easy slab to the top of the ledge on Manifest Destiny or just scramble up thru the woods to the top. You can also move left and do a short rappel from trees to the anchors on Old Route then linking anchors to the ground in four more single 70m rope rappels. 80’ 5.7
Looking down at Matt Peer climbing on pitch four f...
Matt Peer on the thin slab crack of P2, Go west Yo...
Looking down pitch three at Matt Peer from the pin...
The right finger crack on the start of P3 Go West ...
The start of the 120 foot finger crack on pitch 2.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
4 days ago
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
After 33 years of living and climbing in the White Mountains I finally went out to this little cliff. What a gem! A big thanks to Brad and Matt for scoping it out, cleaning it up, and putting in the needed anchors---bravo. Very much like Whitehorse, but a tad steeper and more featured. And talk about features, the finger crack traverse pitch on Go West Young Man is just stunning; one of the most amazing cracks in New Hampshire! Sure, it's easy (I don't think there is a 5.7 move on it), but the rock is very clean, the crack is so crisp it looks like it fractured about last Tuesday, the protection is anywhere you want it (good nuts and tiny to small cams), and the crack just keeps going and going. It is a no-kidding 120-foot finger crack that is between 1/4 inch and 3/4 inch wide for the entire length. We skipped the suggested gear belay a the end of the main part of the crack and just ran the rest of the crack out and then straight up to the big pine tree. This seemed more logical and rope drag was not an issue, even with most of the gear slung with draws. Seriously, I would walk all the way out there just to do this easy pitch again!!!