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Sparks Wall
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Go Sparky Go 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: gets morning to afternoon
Page Views: 1,495
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 20, 2006
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go sparky go

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Description 

If you liked Way Rambo, here is another climb for you, or if you wanted a good primer for that, here it is. This is the obvious climb on the outside wall of a large left-facing corner. The crack starts mellow down low on good hands and gets harder for a spot that is wide and has a loose flake back in it which is tempting to grab. (#4 camalot optional here.) From a good jam above the wide spot (#3 friend) the climb starts into a 15 foot crux sequence with thin hands in an offset, and then culminating in cool moves on a nearly horizontal, offset, finger-crack. The last moves I will leave as a surprise.

This is a power route. It would be a classic if it were not for the brief interruption of good rock in the middle with the wide spot and bad flake. If cleaned, it might deserve "classic" status.


Location 

Keep an eye to the right as you approach the cliff, looking for a splitter to offset to a right-ward hooking, offset finger-crack to a set of anchors. This crack splits the outside face of a huge left-facing dihedral.


Protection 

2 of each, .75"-3"



Photos of Go Sparky Go Slideshow Add Photo
One move left.
One move left.
Joseffa Meir enters the powerful crux of "Go Sparky Go!" (11+) at Sparks Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 11/2006.
Joseffa Meir enters the powerful crux of "Go Spark...
moving to the anchor. Brian from WY
moving to the anchor. Brian from WY
Kyle Trettin getting sporty on the crux.
Kyle Trettin getting sporty on the crux.
Comments on Go Sparky Go Add Comment
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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 4, 2008

I liked this route, even though it only has about ten feet of real climbing on it.

By slim
Administrator
Oct 20, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

fun little route with a grand finale. all the advice you need is written on the plaque - go sparky go!