Go Sparky Go
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If you liked Way Rambo, here is another climb for you, or if you wanted a good primer for that, here it is. This is the obvious climb on the outside wall of a large left-facing corner. The crack starts mellow down low on good hands and gets harder for a spot that is wide and has a loose flake back in it which is tempting to grab. (#4 camalot optional here.) From a good jam above the wide spot (#3 friend) the climb starts into a 15 foot crux sequence with thin hands in an offset, and then culminating in cool moves on a nearly horizontal, offset, finger-crack. The last moves I will leave as a surprise.
This is a power route. It would be a classic if it were not for the brief interruption of good rock in the middle with the wide spot and bad flake. If cleaned, it might deserve "classic" status.
Keep an eye to the right as you approach the cliff, looking for a splitter to offset to a right-ward hooking, offset finger-crack to a set of anchors. This crack splits the outside face of a huge left-facing dihedral.
2 of each, .75"-3"
go sparky go
moving to the anchor. Brian from WY
One move left.
Kyle Trettin getting sporty on the crux.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 4, 2008
I liked this route, even though it only has about ten feet of real climbing on it.
Oct 20, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
fun little route with a grand finale. all the advice you need is written on the plaque - go sparky go!