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Go Runout and Pray 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a X

Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Laeger, Fazio-Rhicard 7/85
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: John Layko Torkleson on Jan 25, 2011

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Four Pitches .9, 10a, .9, .6

Power Dome West Face (lost canyon wall)


Power Dome West Face (lost canyon wall)


not much info on protection. Grabbed this description from Rock and Ice #30

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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 28, 2011

Hi John,
Thanks for adding this route. It would be nice if you could add some additional info, i.e. stating that the route is on Power Dome is not sufficient information to find the climb. It kinda sounds like you don't have any info because you didn't do the route. In general (though not always), it is best to have actually climbed the route before posting it. That way, you can include details about finding the route, descending the route, protection, etc.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 8, 2011

First climb and first new route of many I did with Herb Laeger. We put up dozens of climbs all over the Sierras after doing this climb. We swapped leads hand drilling the few bolts we put in. I remember that my new fires were so tight I lead the last pitch standing on my heels and that is another reason there are so few bolts. I just wanted the hell my feet felt to end. I will try to add more later, but now I need to get changed so I can take mom out for breakfast.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 9, 2011

"The route climbs the dome between the two most prominent water streaks." That is what I wrote in my notes. My topo shows it starting between the two center most water stains on a ledge just above a left angling roof with the first pitch having 3 bolts and ending under a roof with a two bolt belay. 2)follow holds right then back left to short right facing corner then a little left and up to a roof with another right facing corner past a bolt, then up to a one bolt belay above a dike. 3)Wander around until you can work back left to another short right facing corner then belay at a right facing corner with a single bolt. Pretty much straight up from here. Must not be too hard as there are no bolts. Herb lead 1 and 3 and I lead 2 and 4. Hope this helps.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
May 9, 2011

Awesome!! Thanks for posting Eric.