You can see the tip of Gnomon from the West side Needles parking area if you walk a bit West. You'll say to your partner "That can't be it. It's skinny and overhanging." From the East side parking area which is a few hundred yards east of the tunnel, it's very obvious and not so scary looking. From the East viewpoint, the belay chains can be seen glinting in the sun. (You'd think the person installing them would have painted them. Ugly, Ugly!)
From the West side Needles Eye parking area, continue East through the tunnel. Park immediately after the tunnel on your left at a small pullout next to a rock. Follow an eroded trail uphill. You'll see the spire straight ahead (about 150 ft. from the road) although it's hard to make it out due to the trees. John Page's green book "Recommended Climbs ..." gives a good description of approach also.
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Gnomon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gnomon:
Doody Direct 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Gnomon
Doody Direct 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c SD : Custer State Park : ... : Gnomon
This is a fantastic route and good adventure value! It has crack and face climbing as well as a cool and airy "step across" move. Follow the approach in the Gnomon rock description. At the base of the spire, follow it around to the left. Scramble up a gully to the NW face. When you are at a gently overhanging 30 ft crack, drop your pack. This is it!The crack starts out finger size and quickly goes to bomber hands. About 2/3 way up the crack, one can finesse a traverse right on good feet. OR cont...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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