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Mount Athelstan
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Gnomon Direct T 
Lillarete T 
Moonraker T 
Raised By Bears T 
Selective Cut T 
Solstice Start T 
Standing Wave T 

Gnomon Direct 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 20 pitches, 2500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Martinello, Damien Kelly, July 2004
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Dru on May 1, 2009

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This route climbs the Solstice Start to Lillarete, and where that route is forced left to join Lillarete, continues up the arete on beautiful, difficult, runout climbing directly to the summit of the Gnomon. Finish up Lillarete to the summit. The crux is allegedly an unprotected V2/3 boulder problem.


The route climbs the square-cut arete right of Lillarete and left of Selective Cut all the way to the summit of the Gnomon.

Bring crampons and ice axe for the descent.


Gear to 4" and thin pitons.

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