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BETA PHOTO: Starting corner of Glypnod
1. Climb the crack in the corner to a ledge (5.7). Move up left into the large right facing, right leaning corner. Pass a large pine tree (or rappel). Then up the the GT ledge and belay under the right facing corner.
2. Up the corner and make hard moves past the overhang into another corner. Exit left under the next overhang and finish up right to the top.
Start in the large right facing corner to the left of Anguish, 80 feet left of Three Pines.
Standard Gunks rack.
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.9- PG13
The initial corner is very fun, then you have to climb some run-out 5.4 to the GT and belay under the right facing corner.
The last pitch of this is burly. It felt like hard Gunks 5.9 to me, with an MF-quality pump factor. The gear is great on the last pitch though. Overall the whole climb was dirty, but I think with some travel this would be a great route, and unique for the Gunks because of the crack climbing.
|By worth russell|
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011
Wow, I found this climb to be dirty, grassy and not much fun. It seems like the climb is always wet and dank. If you are into adventure routes or atypical gunks routes this may be for you. To me it felt like an adirondack adventure.
Jan 12, 2012
The first and last pitches are worth doing with great gear. It was dry on a warm January day, but I could see the first pitch being damp at other times. The crux on pitch 3 is good, pumpy, well-protected fun.
The second pitch can be linked to the first with doubles or long slings and thoughtful rope management, but is not particularly interesting. It had some loose spots, but there was gear to be had. Not sure I'd call it "R", perhaps PG-13 if not just PG.
|By Steve Moulding|
From: New York
Jun 7, 2012
1993. The first pitch was short but sweet. P2 was lichen covered and looked decidedly loose. No thanks. Rapped down.