Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Gluing a big flake...
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Zane Dordai
Oct 18, 2012

I'm posting this here to ask what other people's stance is on this ethic and if it is to be done, how to do it properly. I'll explain the situation first and what my opinion is...

My friend found some boulders about a year ago in an already established area. These boulders have good, quality climbs on them far away from the main trail, so not in an area that is frequented by hikers at all, if ever. We found one block in particular that has excellent rock and a huge starting flake that is about 90% disconnected. It is solid, and we can tug on it pretty hard, but it flexes and I fear for the first person who comes along and tries it that isnt 130 lbs like myself. The line is good, the hold could be reinforced with glue without being an aesthetic detraction, and it will probably be a great climb for people to enjoy for years to come.

Am I missing something here, or is this still substantially less impact than drilling metal into a wall to climb it? I in no way support gluing 99% of the time, but I'd hate to rip this flake off and ruin a potentially nice line.


FLAG
By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Oct 18, 2012
old 1/4" bolt.

Zane....you might want to ask around locally, as the ethics vary from area to area. The ethic is different in Joshua Tree, CA then in New Jack City, CA. Personally, if you do it well, I don't see an issue with it, but where you're climbing it may not agree with the prevailing standards.


FLAG
By boulderbum
From NY
Mar 11, 2013

whats meant to be is meant to be...HUGE starting flake??? wtf?? let it snap, dont you fucking dare drizzle glue on rock


FLAG
By DoesNotCare
From Heaven
Mar 11, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

In Colorado you have to glue all of the holds on. It's the local ethic.


FLAG
By drunkenmaster
From santa rosa, cali
May 8, 2013

ive personally found many new areas and done literally hundreds of first ascents. ive put up sport and trad routes but mostly boulder problems and i have never used glue. i also (of frkn course) do not ever manufacture holds. break the flake and see whats left. either it wont be climbable or it will be a bit harder maybe. sometimes it even gets easier, just different. glue on rock ive seen a lot of times does not always hold. it gives a false sense of security. if it does break it will also leave a large mess of glue on that spot as a testament to the weakness of mind and body of the boulderers of the past who did it. so dont do it however tempting it may be.

summitorplummet.blogspot.com


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.