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Glued, Screwed, and Tatooed 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: EB Steve & Melissa Tucker FA??
Page Views: 373
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Sep 2, 2008

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Description 

Head up steep underclings and pinches. The climbing starts out easy and gets progressively harder as you go. Make a tricky move to obtain crimps at the lip of the roof and the fifth bolt. Here pull a crux that starts out powerful and turns to balancy. Expect to go past the anchors to clip them, allowing for some nice clean air if you blow it here.

This one feels easy to one-hang but is somehow difficult to put it together for the redpoint. I believe this is in the guide as 12d, but feels softer.

Also despite the name, I didn't see any gluing or chipping on this one.

Location 

On the left side of Main Wall, between Twist of Cain and Hand Job. Four routes right of the popular Sacrified Lizard, just right of a large chimney.

Protection 

5 Bolts to Open Cold Shut Anchors


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By robin hood
Jun 24, 2012

Steve and Melissa Tucker bolted this but never got the red point.