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Glue Slippage 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Johnson, Dale Goddard, 1985
Page Views: 1,148
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (1) Man-tasia is now named Pi...

Description 

About 50 feet to the left of the Tits Up/Hot Beach area on the left side of Cactus is a nice section of cliff with a distinct bulge about 30 feet off the ground. Two routes climb this section of cliff with the left route being Da Fly (13a). The right route that shares the same satrt with Da Fly is Glue Slippage.

After climbing the scary loose start of Da Fly, move slightly right to a ledge system below the bulge. Move up to the bulge (tricky) and then make burly moves along an overhung right-trending seam with difficult clipping stances (crux). At the top of the seam move left onto a thin headwall with sustained climbing to the anchors.

A Cactus Cliff three star for out-of-the-ordinary steepness for Shelf and historical reasons (since it is rumored to be the first route at Shelf)

Protection 

8 or 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor


Photos of Glue Slippage Slideshow Add Photo
the crux bulge
the crux bulge

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By Stefan Griebel
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 22, 2007

This climb looks great from the ground, but compared to the many other great climbs at Cactus Cliff, I felt this one was mediocre. It starts with 25' of chossy, easy climbing. The next 3-4 bolts up the steep arcing crack feature are fantastic and pretty hard. The final crux involves (for me) pulling on a hollow-sounding Frisbee-sized flake. I predict that this flake will soon be tossed just like a Frisbee thus making the route a bit harder. Due to the chossy start, creaky flake, and non-sustained overall nature, I can only give this climb 1 star. The star is earned by the fun and hard moves up the crack with a touch of historical perspective.
By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
Nov 12, 2007

Anyone climbing at this level will certainly understand the subtlety of pulling down rather than out when they reach the "Frisbee" in question. Certainly this route is better than one star. Not a classic, but very good, and well worth doing, especially for the unique lower crux.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Apparently it's just me, but I thought this route was awesome. True, the first 20 feet aren't classic, but that goes for many a route at shelf. The crux moves are full value; unique, techy, powerful and fun. The top lets off somewhat, but is sustained and keeps you on your toes. This one got me syked up and smiling.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 27, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Finally sent this one after trying it here and there for a few years. Still feel the same, this is an awesome route. I did not, however, come across any frisbee-sized flakes near the top, and there was definitely a redpoint or at least onsight crux up there. There were a few hollow sounding holds at the rest in the middle, but it's easy to tread lightly on them. If you're tired of just pulling on crimps and pockets, this is the one for you!