Glory Jean's 

the quick clips on this route looked so bad yesterday (5/23/07) that i wouldnt think of useing them...

I think Tim K Sr. has replaced them. I wish I had been able to find a less awkward spot for the anchors, but I had to get past hollow rock.

Glory Jean's is the old name of the diner out on Rt 25. BITD when you could camp in the parking lot and before the CalmPost Cafe, we would wake up and go there to warm up, eat, flirt with the waitress and charge our batteries. The traverse reminded me of the counter.

C'mon folks! What other 5.6 sport route at Rumney is as interesting and as much fun as Glory Jean's!!! Let's get this thing up to at least a solid 3 stars!!! It's a dang adventure! No boring climbing straight up a bolt line on this thing!

Yeah man I agree this deserves more than 2.5 stars...

I've seen many people get freaked out and or fall trying to go straight up to the anchors after the traverse... It is much more reasonable at the grade to traverse past the anchor to the left, then head up and back right to clip the chains...

Glory Jean's is a wonderful adventure. As M. Sprague indicated it's an awkward place for the anchor, but you can't always get solid bolts where you'd like them. Fun moves and a lot of interesting climbing in 60 feet.

I was a bit freaked on the traverse. I'm tall so the last few feet moving left were tough as the wall kinda pushed me out a bit. But I climbed it and I must agree that it's not a boring, standard climb and deserves some stars. Added my 3.

Kevin I am curious where you think the PG-13 rating comes from?

Also after doing this climb and cleaning the draws off the bolts there is a really fun TR route that the line the rope takes when hanging down from the anchors. It is about 5.8 and get two stars.

Here is how it goes: We started climbing right on the edge of the huge flake to the left of the start of Glory Jean's and to the top of it, then made fun moves up on a few crimps and weird angled holds over the overlap (crux) and then continue up on fun climbing and meeting Glory Jean's at the last bolt of the traverse and finishing up that route.

If you do this please keep your quick draws on the anchors so we don't wear down the fixed gear on this heavily traveled route.

I love the traverse on this. Flows really good with a few crosses and a heal thrown in.

It is a little runout after the third bolt, easy climbing to the fourth bolt, but if you slipped it would hurt falling down that chimney you have to step over.

In addition, it was remarkably dry considering everything else had ice on it and it snowed the night before.

Climbed it yesterday, the last bolt before the anchors is a spinner. I didn't have my nut tool with me while I was up there to try to tighten it... Considering the angle the rope has to take between the last bolt and the anchor it might be better for that bolt to be a glue-in.

this was my first lead at rumney, and honestly it was a great start to a great day, really fun and interesting climb, will definitly be my first stop when i get back there in the fall

Extending the 4th, 6th, and 7th draws on this route will help reduce rope drag a LOT.